AE S1 Technical http://aussieelises.com/index.php Tue, 07 Sep 2010 12:03:27 +0000 30 What !? Gulp! http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1278-what-gulp/
My spanner guy just finished fitting up a cylinder head package from DVA on my S1 Elise. My engine originally had an automatic tensioner but to be on the safe side we changed over to a new manual cam belt tensioner which required tapping a few new holes for the fitting. This also included a new cam belt, tensioner bolt, rotor arm and distributor rotor drive.

Every thing supplied was fitted up with no problems, the cams were dialled in as suggested. 633 Cams with 0.045" lift @ TDC on the inlet and 0.035" on the exhaust @ TDC. Also the supplied Emerald tune file was loaded into the ECU.

The vehicle starts and runs fine, but at 4000 rpm light throttle we have a harsh metallic knock. It doesn't sound like detonation, it is much more severe. You can drive through the rpm range no problems, but on over run with a little throttle being used we get this severe knock. It is more pronounced when driven rather than remaining stationery free revving. We have checked the cam timing and as it is not evident through the rev range we are pretty comfortable it is not the cam timing. The cams only have 1mm more lift than stock and are 14 degrees more duration, so timed as suggested means they are in a very very safe position. The tps has to be set to the new tune and the iac needs some attention along with the mixtures.

My mechanic suggested he look at the bottom end through the sump to check for cracked liners? On checking all looked well. He then put the car back to as it was delivered. At present I don't know if he bothered changing back to the standard cam belt, verniers and tensioner.

Anyway after this my mechanic was shattered to tell me that the noise seems to be bottom end knock!!?! He started it up with fresh oil and the noise is still clearly there!

He plans to speak to Pro Heads tomorrow morning to try and get a better understanding to what may have gone wrong. At the end of the day it is very much looking like the bottom end will require some attention. I am now concerned that this might get VERY pricey for the proposed scope of work and what may have happened.

Does anyone have any details (to a mechanical noob like me) as to what may be going on, likely work that needs to happen to rectify the problem and whether this is likely to be a pricey operation. As a technical noob I am puzzled how changing the top end could cause something to go wrong in the bottom end (if that is indeed the case).]]> Tue, 07 Sep 2010 12:03:27 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1278-what-gulp/ S1 Elise Oil And Filter Advice http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1490-s1-elise-oil-and-filter-advice/ Ed]]> Mon, 06 Sep 2010 11:20:44 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1490-s1-elise-oil-and-filter-advice/ <![CDATA["snap! " And Accelerator Pedal Goes Dead]]> http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1387-snap-and-accelerator-pedal-goes-dead/
Hmmm,

Luckily I was already in the left lane and my off ramp was just ahead so I took the off ramp, losing speed, go down the off ramp as far as I can, then pull off the road onto the grass.

Hmmm,

the steel bracket that joins the accelerator pedal to the pivot linkage on the dashboard has snapped, metal fatigue for sure.

Darn!

After a few minutes of thinking and rummaging through my bag, and tons of fiddling and contorting down into the foot well I was underway again with the lanyard that you get from the USB sticks acting as the link between the pedal and the pivot on the dash.

Good enough to get to work !

And now I've been to the work workshop and bashed up a new metal bracket, and after even more contortions and tons of effort I've drilled out the rivet and screwed in a new bracket.

Doh, I didn't realise that the bracket also held the pedal return spring, so that's only held on with a wire tie at the moment. But hey the throttle link is nice and solid which is the important thing.

So... Check those brackets! mine is a 98 S1, so after 11 years it's just broken due to metal fatigue.

Now, anyone know of a replacement bracket?]]> Sun, 05 Sep 2010 13:14:14 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1387-snap-and-accelerator-pedal-goes-dead/ S1 Dash http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1430-s1-dash/ anyone have the wiring / input specs for an s1 dash - possibly looking at using one in my prb - does it take a CAN feed from the ecu, or is it all seperate sensors ? Tue, 24 Aug 2010 05:56:23 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1430-s1-dash/ S1 Clamhinge http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1415-s1-clamhinge/ More work to finish but we are on our way
Richard
aussieclamhinge@bigpond.com]]> Sun, 22 Aug 2010 01:15:09 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1415-s1-clamhinge/ Sport Mufflers http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1172-sport-mufflers/ I currently have an old Janspeed muffler which has cracked (now rewelded), and have a straight pipe in place of the cat. Im sure the muffler is on its last legs.
Elise parts has a high flow sport muffler but is it worth the cost of importing and which diameter is best for road and track use with 135 motor? High Flow Sports Exhaust
Alternatively are there any Melbourne suppliers that have a better option? Any recommendations?
VICKED]]> Sat, 21 Aug 2010 10:35:00 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1172-sport-mufflers/ Smal Annoying Exhaust Leak http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1376-smal-annoying-exhaust-leak/
I _KNOW_ I have a leak in the exhaust somewhere. But can I find the F3cker? No.. It only is really noticeable when you are at full tilt, as it gets really loud...

It seems like it must be in one of the joints in the exhaust system, but to put the car up on ramps and run it I just don't want to do. Especialy with me underneath.

Is there some sort of tell-tale spray you can get to check exhaust leak to make this easier? The only other choice I have is just do all the joints and check for leaks.

Ta & Cheers

Winno..]]> Sat, 14 Aug 2010 05:46:25 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1376-smal-annoying-exhaust-leak/ K Series Engine Builder In Qld http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1042-k-series-engine-builder-in-qld/ Pleased to advise that Anthony came out to the State Hill Climb champs yesterday to announce he has got bored, and is starting up a new buisness specializing in "Mechanical Repairs to all MG's", including F's and all derivatives.
He built Wayne Henman's 160 hp engine for his F which races at Morgan Park sprints, and is building a sprint special for Wayne which is an old Metro, stripped out, with a fully worked K series in the back where the seat used to be. They are worried that when finished they will need to find a way to stop it wheel standing on take off !!
He can carry out full rebuilds on K series, and is happy to do so.
He is located on the Sunshine Coast, and his mobile is 0424 823826. Any queries anyone has about tuning a K series, he can help.
I have posted the details in the Technical section for Qld.
Giles]]> Sat, 14 Aug 2010 04:54:10 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1042-k-series-engine-builder-in-qld/ K-Series Harmonic-Damper/harmonic-Balancer http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1359-k-series-harmonic-damperharmonic-balancer/ EP Aluminium pulley having no torsional dampening.

Contacted ATI and send a HB there. The drawing back looks like the
(picture in the middle of the page) that ATI has sent back specific to the rover HB.

There is a bit of a discount for more than 5... around 750 Au delivered.

Maybe this needs to be in the for sale or the commercial section...]]> Wed, 11 Aug 2010 06:24:22 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1359-k-series-harmonic-damperharmonic-balancer/ Nitron Street Series http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1292-nitron-street-series/
Are they any better than the Lotus sport yellow konis or the S2 bilsteins.

I know they are not to quantam quality but am looking for a cheaper (less than $1000) shock that is good for a road car.]]> Tue, 27 Jul 2010 07:42:21 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1292-nitron-street-series/ Elise/exige Workshop Manuals http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1143-eliseexige-workshop-manuals/
This will be permantly on this address from now on for all of you to browse and refer to:

http://www.beddysblog.com/lotusmanuals.html

There might be S1 bits in there too but I think its mostly S2 and its up to date featuring the Exige CUP 260.]]> Mon, 26 Jul 2010 03:13:43 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1143-eliseexige-workshop-manuals/ Coolant Leaking On Warm Up Cycle http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1057-coolant-leaking-on-warm-up-cycle/
Once the engine gets above about 50 degrees the system remains sealed.

Does anyone have any experience of this problem? I would love to make it go away.

Thanks,
Keir]]> Wed, 09 Jun 2010 00:44:42 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/1057-coolant-leaking-on-warm-up-cycle/ S1 Roll Bar Details http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/824-s1-roll-bar-details/ the rear braces, are for the roll bar ?

My understanding is that the attachment of the bar to the vehicle is "bolted to welded reinforcements" - Is this correct ?

Yes, I am trying to get my car CAMS Logbooked on a one-off basis so I can enter the Queensland Hill Climb Champs. Any input / advice appreciated, but the CAMS people last weekend told me on a one off basis this was not an issue and no diagonal inserts were required. It would be good to capture a State Title !!

Thanks,

G.]]> Sun, 06 Jun 2010 23:28:21 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/824-s1-roll-bar-details/ Odyssey Pc680 - Best Place To Buy, How To Fit http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/995-odyssey-pc680-best-place-to-buy-how-to-fit/
I have been talking about getting a new battery for Elly for some 2 years, but the Bosch lead battery has lasted over _6 YEARS_ (believe or not) and I haven't had to worry about it.

..Actually; been willing the battery to die as I want to fit a glass mat battery to save weight.

Now it is definately time. Can't rest car up for more than a week until i get the dreaded ..."werrr werr weeeeeerr ...tic,tic, tic" of a dead battery.

So; I know a couple of you have the Odyssey PC680 battery (ROB, Baz, Dave Fluery), so a a couple of questions, please:-


1. Cheapest place to buy (Battery World, other places ??)

2. How do you fit? Any pics?

3. Battery conditioner; I have heard these batteries need a battery conditioner? Yes/no.

..And thank you in advance Scuffers for telling me "You are a Dickhead, just get a lead battery. You don't know anything. You have no penis. You are a mangirl that wears dresses of a Frdiay night. Go and shoot yourself. Please throw yourself into a vat of acid" or similar... :blink:

Other than the recommendation about being a mangirl and wearing dresses of a Friday night (don't really know what that would be like. Probably fun. I like womens dresses, and I shave my legs already due to the bike riding.. and I reckon I have a nice set of pins, so probably it wouldn't be all that bad :wub: ) the above information will not be useful.

Thanks in advance

Winno..

P.s; Davvo or Tim... what do you reckon, me in a dress? Would it light you up?]]> Wed, 02 Jun 2010 08:10:33 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/995-odyssey-pc680-best-place-to-buy-how-to-fit/ Lightweight En24 Flywheel http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/821-lightweight-en24-flywheel/
http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/32/368/lightweight-en24-flywheel/

Has anyone else installed this flywheel? Are there better options?

And should I get it balanced to the clutch?

Cheers
Korgi]]> Sun, 23 May 2010 12:01:07 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/821-lightweight-en24-flywheel/ Fuelling Problem.. http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/891-fuelling-problem/ Sunday, died on way home, same thing, but then it would only start, run for 2 - 4min, then die again. Towed home, diagnose fuel blockage. New filter yesterday, checked last night, all fine. This morning, again! Died on harbour bridge. RTA tow me to Jamison st, cnr Clarence, where I'm now sat, in an Elise which again does not want to run for more than 2-3min...

So, WTF is the problem with my fuel system?
I think if it were the pump, it would just die, not die out slowly...
So, I don't think it's the pump.. I can hear it running, even as car dies.
Blockage/restriction elsewhere, under pressure? Where to start?
Supposed to be driving to Melbourne on Friday.. oh crap..!]]> Sat, 22 May 2010 01:20:21 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/891-fuelling-problem/ S1 Rear Calipers http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/898-s1-rear-calipers/
Anyone taken one apart ? One of mine as just been refurbed and the hand brake sprung lever seems to have a lot of movement in it, which means it isn't really working properly. On the other (untouched) one the h/b lever only moves about 2 cms but on the refurbed one it moves about 4 cms fairly easily, and therefore the handbrake never really gets tight when you pull it up.

I am thinking that the handbrake lever bolt assembly can be put in in several different positions, and they have put it back in incorrectly. Thoughts ?

No big deal, as the h/b is hardly important - at least the regular brakes are working OK !!

G]]> Thu, 13 May 2010 04:11:12 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/898-s1-rear-calipers/ Cv Joints http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/899-cv-joints/ EP don't have 'em and the price for MGF ones locally is astronomic. I'm trying to source them in the UK but I don't know which Rover they are off. Also, do Freelander ones fit?
Cheers,
Cocky]]> Wed, 12 May 2010 09:56:11 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/899-cv-joints/ Help Me Diagnose What To Do With My Geo Set Up http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/876-help-me-diagnose-what-to-do-with-my-geo-set-up/
Just got around to doing a post track day check on the car after the MSCA sprints at Winton a few weeks back.

It looks to me like I'm not working the tyres evenly accross their faces. I'd love to get some comments from those with more experience about what I can do to improve this.


The first two attachments show my rear tyres (225 R15 Dunlop DZ03G in medium ®, 3rd track day) photographed from the front of the car. (007.jpg: rear left, 009 rear right)

They both show wear up to the outer edge, but very little wear on the inner edge (but lots of pick up over the lack of wear).

Last geo showed camber of 2 degrees 40 minutes. There are 4mm of camber shims on either side at present.


The last two attachements show my fronts (205 R15 Dunlop DZ03G in soft (M), 1st track day), again as photographed from the front of the car. (008: front left, 010 front right)

Both have a bluing around the outer edge (overheating?), and quite a lot of smearing of rubber across the tyre. The inner edges are virtually unworn for a good 2.5 cm on each tyre.

Last geo showed a camber of 1 degree 20 minutes, and there's around 5mm of camber shims on each side.


So, what do you think? Too little camber? Wip all the shims out (as Dave has suggested to me before?? Next day out will be Phillip Island, and I guess it'd be nice to get the tyres working properly there!

Thanks in advance for the wise words to come.

Simon

]]> Fri, 07 May 2010 10:19:22 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/876-help-me-diagnose-what-to-do-with-my-geo-set-up/ Elise Failure At Winton http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/752-elise-failure-at-winton/
As the rear wheel bearings have been replaced atleast twice before we are assuming the standard bearings and suspension I have can't take the day to day road use combined with heavy track work.

The recommendation is to replace the rear uprights with the Eliseparts uprated units and replace the front wheel bearing. http://www.elisepart...t-s1-rear-pair/
So whilst it is not an expensive gearbox failure the cost are probably similar as the uprights cost AU$1650 for the pair + shipping + fitting. These also come with a bigger 76mm GT Motorsport bearing.

To make matters worse getting stuff out of the UK is going to be a nightmare with the air strikes and this is my daily driver. Hopefully I can find spare (secondhand) parts to get me going whilst I wait for the uprated parts. Also hopefully someone (simply sports cars) have the uprated parts in stock.

So what do the folk out there in AE land think? Should I go for the uprated uprights? Is there something else I should be looking at or be aware of regarding these new parts i.e. increased strain on other parts, other bits I should buy etc ..?

Note that a few weeks ago I had ordered the new rear lower wishbones from Eliseparts to replace my bowed units. Unfortunately they don't have any in stock at the moment http://aussieelises.com/public/style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif]]> Fri, 07 May 2010 07:41:46 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/752-elise-failure-at-winton/ <![CDATA[Secondary "bonnet" Catches.]]> http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/865-secondary-bonnet-catches/ Fri, 07 May 2010 01:15:51 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/865-secondary-bonnet-catches/ Anyone Having Any Qc Issues With Their S1 At The Moment ? http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/407-anyone-having-any-qc-issues-with-their-s1-at-the-moment/ But have you noticed how many QC issues they seem to be having at the moment ? Doors, windows, headlights, engines, radiators, seats, brakes, air conditioning (snigger), and just about everthing else.

As Winno might say, "are modern cars all crap ?". Thanks god we have earlier cars that didn;t have all these problems !! (Or have we just corrected all our problems already !!)

Giles

PS, And even if they read this thread, they won't dare answer it because it will show all their friends that they were in here !! :rotf:]]> Thu, 06 May 2010 19:29:20 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/407-anyone-having-any-qc-issues-with-their-s1-at-the-moment/ Diy Elise 111S http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/270-diy-elise-111s/ I could have sent the car for cambelt replacement, and hoped that I hadn't bent a valve or two, with the outcome likely to be that I have, and the repair bill to triple..
If I had the funds, I'd have just committed to my 'proper' engine conversion, but the funds just aren't available right now.
The final option, I noticed on AE that Jeff had a VVC motor and ECU available, so a deal was made, and the VVC motor has a new home.
Out with the original motor..
And I'm now in the midst of installing the VVC..

Painted plug cover:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/cy101432/Lotus%20Elise/VVC/DSC00004.jpg

Painted Plenum:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/cy101432/Lotus%20Elise/VVC/DSC00002.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/cy101432/Lotus%20Elise/VVC/DSC00003.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/cy101432/Lotus%20Elise/VVC/DSC00001.jpg

It is now back in, but yet to be completely bolted up, and then I embark on connecting everything.
I'm doing a little work on the headers, and collector pipe before installing.

Once all is in, connected, and ready to go, I need to find someone with the equipment to match the MEMS2J ECU to the original 5AS Lucas Immobiliser system.]]> Tue, 27 Apr 2010 10:40:21 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/270-diy-elise-111s/ Advice On Anti Roll Bar Upgrade (Sway Bar) http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/614-advice-on-anti-roll-bar-upgrade-sway-bar/ I'm thinking about upgrading my from my original anti roll bar to this one from Elise Parts.
http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/73/631/1-adjustable-anti-roll-bar/

Everything else is standard too, suspension, brakes, newish road tyres, etc...

Any thoughts?

Phil G.]]> Sat, 10 Apr 2010 09:57:12 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/614-advice-on-anti-roll-bar-upgrade-sway-bar/ Service Tool/diagnostic Computer.. http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/428-service-tooldiagnostic-computer/
Engine change, new ecu..

Need the 5AS paired/matched to the ecu.

Service notes mention the Lotus Service Tool being the tool to do this, and I have t on good authority that it is a 30 sec job once plugged in.

However, will i find someone who has this Lotus Service Tool, or alternatively, would any sort of decent service centre with late model diagnostic equipment be capable of performing this?

I'm gonna need to either have someone come to me, with portable equipment (Lotus Service Tool is a hand held unit) or I will need to tow the car to them, and then back home.

So, where to start looking?]]> Thu, 01 Apr 2010 23:47:28 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/428-service-tooldiagnostic-computer/ Method In My Madness http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/421-method-in-my-madness/ Which is why I have been really surprised to see so many comments recently about things going wrong with some of the newer cars. I really thought that a lot of these issues had been addressed, in the same way that a lot of the 1996 / 97 issues (red clutch hose, low radiator bleed line, cant rails, plastic cyl head dowels,etc) had been rectified by the time mine was finally built in 1999. So I am wondering if, like I said in a comment above, maybe some new owners are maybe not aware of some of the K series vagiaries and are falling into the same traps that others already perhaps know the way to avoid ? And if thais the case, then maybe the sharing of such issues would make ownership just a little more enjoyable for them.

Like a list of the "oddities" / fallabilities of our cars, by model year, and how to avoid / live with them, so that newbies can maybe benefit from the hindsight of other longer term owners ? I would be happy to try to start the ball rolling if anyone thinks it might be worthwhile.

G.]]> Sat, 27 Mar 2010 08:01:28 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/421-method-in-my-madness/ Fuel Gauge On Stack http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/577-fuel-gauge-on-stack/
Any thoughts?

And if anyone who doesn't do much if any trackwork wants a cost effective new suspension, the B&C S2 Bilstein Kit is worth it. Nitrons out of my league. Cost all in inc p&p, was $1650, inc two new ball joints and two rear toe arms fitted at the same time.]]> Fri, 26 Mar 2010 12:36:01 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/577-fuel-gauge-on-stack/ Tappety Sound http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/572-tappety-sound/ My engine is making tappety noises which I think has something to do with valve clearences? Its the sound you sometimes get when the car starts on a cold morning but eventually goes away as the engine warms up. My car is beginning to sound like a demented clock on speed.

Can I fix this? Is it a relatively simple process? What tools do I need, roughly how long does it take to fix, What parts do I need to buy? Am I right that its the valves ? (I thought you only got valves in old transistor radios?)]]> Thu, 18 Mar 2010 11:55:37 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/572-tappety-sound/ Help! http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/565-help/
I was rather foolishly working on my car (I should know better by now) and whilst I had the top right hand portion of the dash dismantled I dropped my flashlight down into the body work. I now rests at the bottom of the body work behind the coin tray !!!!!!!!!!!!!http://aussieelises.com/public/style_emoticons/default/angry.gif http://aussieelises.com/public/style_emoticons/default/angry.gif If you thump the fibreglass body work from underneath the car you can feel the flashlight. This is the fibreglass bodywork directly behind the front dirver side mud guard. It is the start of the tunnel that the water pipes run through and appears completely inaccessible except through the small hole through which the flashlight fell into http://aussieelises.com/public/style_emoticons/default/angry.gif http://aussieelises.com/public/style_emoticons/default/angry.gif http://aussieelises.com/public/style_emoticons/default/angry.gif
I have enough of the dash off to get my hand down there but there is a large overlap of plastic from the coin tray protruding into the gap that is stopping my hand getting to the flashlight.

So does anyone know how to get this 50c peice of plastic off without dismantling the whole car??]]> Sat, 13 Mar 2010 22:47:15 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/565-help/ New Brakes http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/200-new-brakes/
I bought the alloy-belled jobbies from EliseParts. I chose them because 1. They looked the business and 2. They claim to be as light as possible through the use of an alloy centre section which bolts to a conventional iron outer disc.

While I had the discs off the car I put them on the scales just to see how light the famous MMCs are by comparison with state-of-the-art convention discs.




The MMCs really are amazing, and as good as the new brakes look (and perform), I am a bit sad that my Elise is now just that little bit more ordinary. At least I still have the MMCs on the back.

The new brakes are nice though. They are better suited for the road than the MMCs which were only ever truly happy when they were up to racetrack temperatures. No more evil squeals or the associated discussions with first time passengers when I notice their looks of concern! The braking performance in the wet is also much better. The new drilled and slotted discs look brilliant through the black wheels too.

]]> Thu, 04 Mar 2010 02:47:27 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/200-new-brakes/ Castor http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/511-castor/ Doing a set-up on the car over the weekend and wanted to know how you adjust the castor on an S1 elise? Wed, 03 Mar 2010 23:58:17 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/511-castor/ K Series Head On Ebay http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/504-k-series-head-on-ebay/
I'm thinking of buying one as a spare and/or to get ported, big valves etc for an upgrade one day without the car being off the road. And before any smart ar$e S2 owners comment - had my car for 10 years since new and no HGF (and the original radiator as well)!! Just seems like a good deal and the exchange rate is better than ever.

Does this look like a genuine item and a good deal?

Also, should I get it shipped here and get someone to do work on it or send it to DVA or Sabre Heads (Rog) in the UK? Is there anyone good with K series head work in Melbourne?




http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Rover-K-Series-Cylinder-heads-Brand-new-1-4-1-6-1-8-etc_W0QQitemZ280451808024QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item414c3afb18]]> Wed, 03 Mar 2010 12:35:18 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/504-k-series-head-on-ebay/ Who To Rebuild A Gearbox http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/462-who-to-rebuild-a-gearbox/
Bought a late model PG1 gearbox yesterday at a give away price. Very late model C4BP from a 1.8 VVC car. Hardly been used.

Dumb question: I noticed that the final drive is different in the C4Bp compared to the normal gear box. What is this going to do? (yes; my dumb question pass has now been used)

Who do I get to check it out? I would prefereably-seeing I bought it cheap- like to get somebody to rebuild it and give it the all-clear. How much will this cost?

Whilst I've got the g/box out, might as well do an LSD. What would people recommend? How much do they cost (Please; don't scare me.)

Anyone got an LSD they don't want or not using at the mo? :rotf:

Ta

Winno....]]> Wed, 24 Feb 2010 11:45:02 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/462-who-to-rebuild-a-gearbox/ Hmi Rover Crank In Oz http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/430-hmi-rover-crank-in-oz/
Anyone knows who has it? or can post some pics of the crank?

There were very few HMI cranks ever done - maybe 6 or 7? and I have always been dead opposed to it - on principle, believing it unnecessary, expensive, and the whole technical argument misplaced and largely misunderstood. Unfortunately one particular member of Seloc had been forthright in his promotion of this work and several have taken his lead. It is therefore important for those that have the HMI cranks to be able to know what happened.


simon]]> Mon, 22 Feb 2010 00:08:14 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/430-hmi-rover-crank-in-oz/ Paint Your Healight Surrounds Black http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/434-paint-your-healight-surrounds-black/
Can someone with skills do some PhotoShopage to prove that I am right?]]> Sat, 20 Feb 2010 08:04:24 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/434-paint-your-healight-surrounds-black/ Dunlop 03G 195/50R15 Soft http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/345-dunlop-03g-19550r15-soft/ are still making them.. just not bringing them in..

They were nice and sticky.. Im gonna miss 'em. :(]]> Fri, 19 Feb 2010 06:46:09 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/345-dunlop-03g-19550r15-soft/ How Much Brake Fluid ? http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/310-how-much-brake-fluid/ )

I was hoping to see a more definite colour change when the new fluid came through, but it was hard to discern, so I just kept going till I was sure.

Looked everywhere, in the manual, in the handbook, for the volume of brake fluid that is supposed to be in the system, and couldn't find anything. Anyone got any idea ? Including the clutch cylinder as well.

Very impressed with the Eesibleed as I say. Did the whole system by myself no probs in about an hour all up, then went out to bed in the brakes and after the initial application to reset the system, had no softness in the pedal or anything. Magic, and one of the easiest jobs I have ever done on the car !

Giles]]> Tue, 16 Feb 2010 05:00:49 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/310-how-much-brake-fluid/ S1 K Series Assistance http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/349-s1-k-series-assistance/ You'll need your car, and a torch:
Now, the wiring I need to work out, consists of 3 connections, need to know where they go: All are located here, within the yellow area:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/cy101432/Lotus%20Elise/wiring/DSC00029.jpg

The first wire, circled here in red:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/cy101432/Lotus%20Elise/wiring/DSC00026.jpg

...comes out from the loom in front of, and below the ECU.
I need to know, coz dumbass here forgot, where does it go?
The two possible options are:
-starter motor power/battery post:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/cy101432/Lotus%20Elise/wiring/DSC00024.jpg

-or-
-earthing post, at front of ECU bracket:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/cy101432/Lotus%20Elise/wiring/DSC00025.jpg

So, it either connects to +12v. or earth..
I don't wanna f*ck it up!

One more wire question..

Same location, just ahead of the ECU, there are 3 plugs on little clips on the ECU bracket.
One of these is a 2 pin, with thick brown wires coming out, the wires aren't very long, and go into the loom very close.
There are 2 plugs, the same, which can plug in (in blue)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/cy101432/Lotus%20Elise/wiring/DSC00026.jpg

These come from separate locations. One comes from the loom in close proximity to the ECU, and the other comes from down with the power cables to the starter motor.
(-One of the two plugs, circled in red, connects to the plug circled in blue.
The plug identified in yellow, as positive, joins the loom, as indicated in yellow, down with starter motor power wiring.
The other, identified in green, joins into the loom again, immediately in front of, and below, the ECU bracket, as shown)
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/cy101432/Lotus%20Elise/wiring/DSC00021.jpg

Which of these 2 do i connect to the other plug?

Alternatively, is anyone with an S1, still rover equipped, prepared to come meet me at redfern (work, safe!) so i can have a quick peek, and find out for myself? (can arrange a convenient time)

Thanks.
Clint.]]> Mon, 08 Feb 2010 01:25:58 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/349-s1-k-series-assistance/ Disc brake thickness http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/40-disc-brake-thickness/
In the Lotus manual, the numbers are 26 mm and 24.9 mm, which is quite a big difference, but these seem to specifically refer to MMH discs.

I remember that there was a LOT of discussion about this some years ago in the UK when a lot of people's original discs were first approaching replacement levels, and IIRC at that time people were saying that it was reasonable to go thinner than 24 mm on the steel ones.

Any opinions on what is a safe minimum ? I have ordered some Ali Bells off Geary that should be here shortly, but was wondering waht the safe min might really be. I am not the last of the demon late breakers - My current EBC's have been on there for about 17500 miles - 28000 kms. 2 sets of RS 14's in that time.

And lastly, if you fit new discs, is it best to fit new pads at the same time so they all match up and bed in together ?

Giles]]> Fri, 05 Feb 2010 00:11:56 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/40-disc-brake-thickness/ Gasket Needed! http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/340-gasket-needed/
Much Appreciated!
Thanks,
Clint]]> Thu, 04 Feb 2010 05:24:53 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/340-gasket-needed/ Gearbox Oil Change http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/311-gearbox-oil-change/
1. How much oil exactly do I need to use to refill it?
2. Where exactly is the entry point for the refill? (it looks like there are a number of access holes at various points around the gearbox)

Any help out there?

Simon]]> Mon, 01 Feb 2010 22:24:16 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/311-gearbox-oil-change/ Headlight Cover Sticky Thingies http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/198-headlight-cover-sticky-thingies/
My headlight covers are an entomologists delight. They are stuck down with the "goo" Geary sells. It's time for a clean and was wondering what people use over here. They were last cleaned in early 05 after the quarantine wash for bringing the car in left water marks inside.

I don't want to use screws.

I would like some of the heavy duty 3M industrial strength velcro people have mentioned before but when I rang 3M here they were clueless about it.

I've tried Spotlight, Bunnings, Repco, Auto One, SuperCheap etc to no avail.

Anyone else got any ideas?

I realise it's been done a lot in SELOC, so before I go thru their archives, I thought I'd try here.

TIA,
David 0 Dec 98 S1 (35189)]]> Thu, 28 Jan 2010 06:19:57 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/198-headlight-cover-sticky-thingies/ What Ride Height http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/16-what-ride-height/
Have finally drilled out the seized grub screw out of the koni yellows and am ready to put them back on?]]> Mon, 18 Jan 2010 03:18:23 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/16-what-ride-height/ Toyo R1R http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/65-toyo-r1r/
Anyone tried the new Toyo R1R?

http://www.toyo.com.au/Proxes%20R1R.htm]]> Thu, 14 Jan 2010 21:57:10 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/65-toyo-r1r/ And My Next Stooopid Question Relates To Coolant... http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/149-and-my-next-stooopid-question-relates-to-coolant/
As part of my ongoing refresh of the car I'm fitting a PRT today. Obvioulsy this involves draining the coolant. Unless I'm really dumb this in turn will require refilling the coolant.

I guess the orginal Unipart non OAT coolant (10 year old K series S1!) isn't available over here, but given that the coolant I currently have is yellowy green I guess that it is probably still a non OAT in there. The general advice I came across when resaeching what to use was go for the same chemistry that the car has previously used, and of course never mix different chemical types together. So, I thought I knew what I was doing. So, down to autobarn grab a few 5l bottles of the Castrol Radicool product. As I wonder up to the till sales chap comes up ands asks what car it's for. Told him. He then stroked his chin and said I should be careful of the premix stuff cause it can cause corrosion on alloy engines. Now, why premix would cause corrosion as opposed to non premix I don't know, but he was adamant it was the mix rather than the chemistry that was important. He also tried to put down castrol as a brand in general. He suggested that I buy the Nulon long life concentrate which is apparently a HAT (Hybrid additive technology) type which I'd have to mix up myself (the green stuff, not the red which is OAT). Now, given this chap is I guess more used to selling coolant for Fords and Holdens I thought I'd not buy there and then, but rather I'd ask for the sage advice of the AE crowd (AE1/AE2.......I don't care which!!!).

So, long story short, what should I use? I'm of course going to give the system a good clean and flush before anything new goes in, so I guess I could change chemitsry if that's recommended.....

Thanks

Simon

PS I know this question has been answered many times before, but the search function on this new site doesn't have old data, and the serach function on the old site doesn't work at all for me. So, sorry to ask for duplicate responses. The other way to look at it is, of course, that by populating the new forum with dumb questions I'm raising the usefulness value of the archives. I'll think of it that way.

:chicken:]]> Wed, 13 Jan 2010 04:43:12 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/149-and-my-next-stooopid-question-relates-to-coolant/ Sport Cat For S1? http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/123-sport-cat-for-s1/
Just wondering if anyone has any recommendations of where to get a sports cat made up in Melbourne? As ever, key question of who can be trusted to work on our tricky little machines.....

Thanks,

Simon]]> Mon, 11 Jan 2010 21:12:38 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/123-sport-cat-for-s1/ Clutch Cover Bolts http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/69-clutch-cover-bolts/
I'm currently changing my clutch, so clam is off, gearbox is out and I thought I was just about to reach the point where things start going back together...BUT NO!

I've managed to round two of the 10mm bolts that hold the clutch cover to the flywheel. They must be very soft since I had a good socket fit and wasn't applying that much force.

Anyway, any useful suggesting for how I can get them out? They are soaked in penetrating oil and I'll try pliers in the am. Failing that I guess I'll drill them (hopefully thet really are soft!)

Also, does anyonw know off the top of their head what the threads are? I guess I need to find some new ones in the morning.

Ta,


Simon]]> Sat, 09 Jan 2010 11:54:08 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/69-clutch-cover-bolts/ Tyre Sizes For S1 Elise Tmrs http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/85-tyre-sizes-for-s1-elise-tmrs/ Sat, 09 Jan 2010 09:42:20 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/85-tyre-sizes-for-s1-elise-tmrs/ <![CDATA[Quad TB's etc]]> http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/25-quad-tbs-etc/
Pulled it all off - or at least the TB's, injectors, Malpassi etc, and put a 52 mm single TB on together with the old standard plastic inlet manifold. Measurements taken on the same dyno showed that the hp dropped from 127.4 to 121.4 - but the dyno shows that up to 6000 rpm the new bits actually performed better. Since then I have also gone back to a smaller diameter Piper exhaust.

Got fed up with fiddling, so sold the bits I had taken off. Now the person who bought them has also added Piper cams and emerald (thats all) and just run his car up on a dyno and got almost identical result, with power up from about 105 to 126. And his torque is worse up to 5400 rpm, and only slightly better up to 6500 rpm.

So how the hell do you get low down torque out of one of these K series motors ? Maybe I should just put a close ratio gear box in there ? Or would longer inlet trumpets really make that much difference ?

Mine is the plot with the 2 readings of 121.4 and 127.4 on it.]]> Wed, 07 Oct 2009 06:50:14 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/25-quad-tbs-etc/ Wiring Question http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/22-wiring-question/
I have installed an oil temp and an oil pressure guage in my S1. I have installed the sensors in the supplied spacer which goes between the oil filter and the OF housing. I have run the wires all the way up from the sensors to the guages. I have all the instrument binnacle apart, so all wires are visible. I now just have to connect 4 wires up as follows :-
Black wire from guages to Ground wire on car.
Red wire from guages to 12 vdc (ignition)
Also need to connect a white and orange wire to 12 vdc - if I connect white to ignition with orange wire not connected, then the scale lighting on the guages is always white. If I connect the orange wire to ignition with white wire not connected, then the cale lighting is always amber. Alternatively with white wire connected to Ignition and orange to 12v from lights, then scale lighting is white with headlamps off and amber when headlights are on. If you reverse the white and orange wires, then you reverse this lighting scenario. Personally, I don't think I need lights on the guages when lights are off, so all I need to do is to connect orange wire to ignition with white not connected so the lighting is always amber.

Now, looking at wiring diagrams etc, I THINK that the following is correct for the wires coming OUT of the bottom of the stack into that blue plug:-

Green wire on the car is the 12 vdc / ignition wire
Black wire on the car is the earth wire

So if I need to connect both the red wire AND the orange wire from the guages to the ignition wire, can I connect them together in one bundle to the Green wire ?
And then I just connect the black wire from the guages to the black wire from the Stack, right ?

Alternatively where can I find out what all the coloured wires in the stack are for ? I have looked in the wiring diagrams in the service manual, but am not sure that the letters beside the wires seem to mean a colour ?

And if I already have an I-Shift wired into 2 of those same wires, can I just include the wire for these new guages into those same joins, so I don't have to make new extra joins ? Or will that mess each of the instruments up ?

Or should I just get an auto electrician in ?

Oh, and should I disconnect the battery when doing all this, just in case I blow something up ?

I HATE wiring !! As you may have guessed.

Thanks, Giles]]> Tue, 29 Sep 2009 06:26:53 +0000 http://aussieelises.com/index.php?/topic/22-wiring-question/