AE S2 Technical

Exhaust Manifold Heat Shielding - Necessary?

Tue, 07 Sep 2010 06:58:28 +0000

After a recent service (sump removal) requiring removal of the exhaust, I find the manifold has been returned to position without the heat shielding re-fitted. This shows the exhaust in all it's glory, but I'm a bit concerned about the Alternator, which is very close to one outlet pipe. I'm about to try an make a shield just for the alternator, however should I also insulate the boot firewall with shielding? It has some silver reflective material stuck to it at present...

Any thoughts?

Has Anyone Fitted A Sports Cat To Exhaust

Mon, 06 Sep 2010 10:16:42 +0000

Looking at upgrading the headers and cat at a later date (when I can afford it ) so what's the go here?

Swapping out the cat for a sports cat or even a cat delete. Anyone here done this ?
I don't want to get busted by the e.p.a. as its a big fine. Feedback appreciated

ta Brian.

Odd Alarm Remote Issue

Sun, 05 Sep 2010 07:26:32 +0000

I'm assuming those people with an alarm/immobiliser on an S2 are the same key to mine, attached some pics.

This is only really an annoying issue rather than something majorly important, but when I'm near the car if I'm holding the key in my hand sometimes it triggers the activation/deactivation of the alarm while the key is being wobbled about during taking off the cover or putting something in the boot. The batteries are new so it's not that, and I'm not pressing the button, it just seems that the circuit board is so sensitive to movement it sets if off sometimes.

I have a second key that I will try using and see if it behaves in the same manner, but curious if anyone else has experienced this.

Self Service - Oil & Filter For 111R/exige

Sat, 04 Sep 2010 03:52:02 +0000

Just wondering first off what filter is everyone using in their 2zz engined cars?

I know the original filter is meant to be 90915-10004. Went past toyota this morning and was told the replacement filter for this is the 90915-YZZE2 while apparently on lotustalk the replacement is meant to be 90915-YZZF1. So which one is the right one or are they interchangeable? I haven't gotten a chance to see what is on the car at the moment.

2nd question. What oil are you all using? Lotus manual specifies 5W-40 and while I've been using Royal Purple on previous cars it looked as if my local shop doesn't stock it. They did have the 5w-40 in other brands though (motul was probably the only one I had actually heard of though).

S1 G'box Into S2

Sat, 04 Sep 2010 00:18:42 +0000

hi there am about to purchase another engine and gearbox from another member they are out of an s1. just need to check a couple of things.
1: is an s1 gbox a straight bolt in fit to an s2?or is it a major hassle, this gbox has some good bits in it ,and wanted to just swap out engine and g box as one unit.

2: as the engine has had some work done to it , what is the best suggestion for tuning , completely new ecu, piggyback, interceptor etc, also what is the best bang for yor buck computer.

Much more used to tuning subarus, where you can just have the ecu reflashed!!!

thanks all advice welcome
sid

Water Leak Into Boot

Thu, 02 Sep 2010 05:56:51 +0000

Hi guys,
Has anyone had this happen in their S2?
I've got water leaking into the boot and its bloody annoying.

Any remedy's?

Cheers
Steve T

Clutch Adjustment

Thu, 02 Sep 2010 04:38:50 +0000

I have one last little niggle with the car, and forgot to ask at Pizza last night.

The clutch bite point is close to the top, is there a way to adjust the clutch to move the bite point closer to the floor?

Cheers Sean

Harness Bar

Wed, 01 Sep 2010 21:56:41 +0000

Any one know of a harness bar for a 111r which requires no cutting to the interior???

Cheers Sean

Loose Wires(?)

Mon, 30 Aug 2010 03:54:20 +0000

Hi guys

While fooling around in the engine bay on the weekend I found a couple of loose connectors. I am hoping they are just spares ‘cos I can’t see where (if anywhere) they should go. Can someone with a 1zz pull their engine cover off and have a look to put my mind at ease?

They are all on the rear LHS of the engine block near the throttle body.

Plug 1: Flat black multiconnector, several wires in

Plug 2: Dark grey plug. two wires. One blue/black, one white/yellow

Plug 3: Light grey plug. May be a sensor (?), single black/yellow wire

Instrument Stack Fault

Fri, 27 Aug 2010 07:47:00 +0000

Most of the "tell tale" lights don't work on the instrument "stack". ie mil, blinker, oil pressure. The high beam and ign do work. There is no obvious fault looking at the circuit board. Does anyone know how I could diagnose this fault?

Brake Servo Adjustment

Fri, 27 Aug 2010 00:52:32 +0000

Apparently S2 Toys are ghey, but has anyone attempted to harden them up by either switching off the brake servo, installing a vacuum regulator or similar to be able to adjust servo pressures, or chucked out the lot and put in proper manly brakes such as from an S1 or some other proper car?

The issue is lack of feel, we need progressive hardness not a toggle switch between turned on and turned off if you see what I mean.

Gearbox Oil Question

Thu, 26 Aug 2010 03:48:36 +0000

Having just bought the red 2008 Elise SC from Zagame that was the subject of another post in the for sale section, I have a minor technical question. I have noticed that the gearbox is particularly notchy when cold and you have to be careful not to go too fast for the syncro (for 2nd and 3rd only). I have always been careful with gearboxes when cold (having been a mechanic many years ago and having had lots of Alfas) but this needs a surprising amount of care. I have read on Lotustalk that other people have had the same problem and have changed to a different oil with good results - the suggestion is Redline MT-90. I will probably ultimately do something about making the gearchage more precise as well (different cables seem to be the way to go from what I have read) but want to fix this issue first.

Has anyone here tried that oil or anything else that has worked? Or I am not being careful enough. If it is an unusual problem, I might have to make a quick warranty claim!

To update on my earlier post, I picked the car up in Melbourne at 1pm the Friday before last and arrived home in Brisbane at about 3.30pm on Saturday (with a stop in Dubbo overnight). In short, the car was fabulous. It wasn't a relaxing drive like some cars I have had before but it was lots of fun.
cheers
Rowan

Newbie First Elise - Questions & Advice

Wed, 25 Aug 2010 12:45:01 +0000

Hi Guys,
Well this is my first post, so thought I'd say hi and probably ask a few silly questions so I hope you can bear with me

Today, I decided to make the plunge and picked up my first lotus elise and was lucky to get the 3rd MY11 1.6 Litre in australia, which I am really happy about. I have tradtionally been a AWD fan and have done up various subie's of the years and know them very well but I must say I am very new to the lotus world and really have no idea of the options out there.

Firstly, I want to say how happy me and my partner are with the purchase. It is such a pure driving experience and the fun factor is just amazing. I can't believe you can get so much grip from a rear wheel drive and such direct steering, the communication through the steering wheel is amazing and really helps when hitting the corners.

I was tosing up whether we went the standard elise or SC (R spec was like 5 month weight) but I really couldnt justify the extra $30k aussie on it.

I was hoping I could get some guidance on a few things around lotus in general and specifically the 1.6 if anyone has it.

End of if the day I would like to pull an extra 20kw out of the car. I dont want to go overboard and realise (assuming the usual trade off with reliability and driviability) but still I would like to get an extra 20kw or so.

I was hoping I could get some feedback on the following as mentioned I am a total newbie when it comes to lotus so I dont know the in and outs of mods, how safe they are, whats available in the market etc.

Any help would be appreciated.

1. Firstly, how robust are the engines? For example my MY08 had conrods and rings like glass so basically a light tune and exhaust is all you could get out of it, can the engine handle a low powered turbo or SC and is it possible with the make up on the engine bay??? If so, any suggestions on brand or model. I dont want to push engine to hard, I just want abit more grunt as its gone down from 1.8 to 1.6 I think it has to be revved just a little too much.

2. Are there plenty of people that make after market exausts? The gave me a standard lotus add on cat back but sure I could get more from flow with a good all the way through. Same again for cold air intake etc.

3. How are the ECUs to tune is there many people around that can tune them? or piggy backs online or places in NSW??????????

Open to anyones thoughts, essentially Im looking for a max of an extra 20-25kw, which Im planning to do once the engine runs in.

Any advise, links or suggestions on trustworthy workshops I could take to discuss mods would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Guys..

Exciting time, I now found an exuse to go out and buy milk for no reason tonight, well actually twice! still trying to work out the best way to get in though being 6"2

Exige S Straight Through Exhaust

Wed, 25 Aug 2010 00:54:31 +0000

Gday

Was wondering if anyone had achieved either a single exit or double exit straight through exhaust above diffuser by cutting holes into the rear panel rather than removing it.

I'm not sure the entrails hanging out the back is such a great look!

Advice gratefully accepted.

Immobiliser Light Flashing Intermittently While Driving

Tue, 24 Aug 2010 03:06:05 +0000

Is anyone aware of any purposes for the little red light inside the tacho other than as a shift light when at high revs or immobiliser 'on' light when the cars stopped? I've scanned through the manuals and other forums but haven't found anything...

When driving along it will intermittently kick in and start flashing. Sometimes for a dozen times, sometimes more, sometimes less... Doesn't seem to be any pattern for when it starts or stops happening except that its becoming more frequent.

The car seems to be running 100% while its happening...

Batteries And Brackets

Tue, 17 Aug 2010 05:12:42 +0000

Hey all,

I've got an 04 111r. Now when I purchased it the battery bracket had clearly had some acid on it and took the time and effort to destroy the stuck screws, replace them with some bolts and clean up the standard brackets from any rust etc (Also replaced the battery with just a standard sealed one from battery world at the time as I was under time constraints). Thing is I've put it all back together and I just don't trust that standard bracket on the road. I can't imagine how it would be on the track. So my questions are:

1. Anybody ever had any problems with the standard battery bracket?

2. Anybody modified the standard bracket to make it more secure?

3. Anybody replaced the battery to one of those PC680s or something similar? If so to what and what exactly is involved in maintaining them? I'm hoping to maintain the convenience of a battery that can last at least 3-4 weeks if I don't drive the car but also something that is either secured better or replaced with a battery that I can then use one of those brackets from S111 or RLS which have a kill switch on them and seem fairly secure.

Cheers
John

Rover K Poor Idle

Thu, 12 Aug 2010 21:39:11 +0000

G'day gurus,

My first post in the technical section! WOooT
The Rover K is idling erratically on cold and hot. I'm thinking it's the AICV or the water temp sensor.

What are your thoughts?

Cheers
Steve T

Led Tail Lights/ Rear Diffuser Grill Help

Thu, 12 Aug 2010 00:43:31 +0000

Hi all,
I am looking at doing a few cosmetic updates to my 2002 model Elise; I am looking at updating the following:
LED Taillights I would like to make sure I have this right, if I buy the EURO outer lights and the US inner lights that will result in all four rings lighting up?
What happens if I buy all four US spec lights? What would light up when driving with the lights on?
Also I would like to know is there much work in installing the lights? Is there any additional electric components I would need?

Rear Diffuser Grill On the rear of the Elise above the diffuser there is the mesh grills where the exhaust comes out from, has anyone updated their earlier series 2 Elise’s grill to the late model one? If you know, is it the same shape size, etc?

Does anyone know where I can find a carbon fibre dash surroundings (were the air con vents are located beneath the front window? I know there was a good quality one on ebay a while ago.

Thanks all!!

Proalloy Charge Cooler Kit

Wed, 11 Aug 2010 13:23:53 +0000

Wondering if anyone here had fitted one, and could clarify:
- is the water pump wired to be always on? Not obvious from current 'instructions'....
- fans, assume click into existing fan circuits... load ok for fuses?

Any advice welcomed.

The instructions are a block diagram and a bunch of photos with nil electrical clues...

Cobra Alarm Problem

Sun, 08 Aug 2010 08:27:26 +0000

I recently had a weird thing happen to my S2’s car alarm, but managed to solve it. Its posted here in case anyone else ever has the same issue…

It happened after some electrical work on the car, with the battery cables disconnected and reconnected a couple of times.

Using the remote alarm fob, the car would lock and arm, then a few seconds later the alarm would kick in. http://aussieelises.com/public/style_emoticons/default/angry.gif

Opening the boot or front panel while armed resulted in a buzzer warning but not the alarm. Locking the car manually, then using the small button to “disable” the motion sensor also resulted in a buzzer warning when movement was detected in the cabin.

The most amazing thing though was that I could start the car even when the immobiliser was on (ie just turned the key and pressed the start button without pressing the key fob disarm button).http://aussieelises.com/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif

This had me stumped for quite a while, but it turned out to have the simplest of causes - a blown 3A fuse, for the immobiliser, located in the engine bay. http://aussieelises.com/public/style_emoticons/default/blush.gif

Reprogramming Alarm Fobs

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 17:54:12 +0000

Hi Gents,

I remember on the old forum, coming across some instructions involving turning keys and punching buttons and all sorts of fancy dance steps to enable one to reprogram their alarm fobs.. Does this still exist anywhere?

I bought an original second hand fob from the UK a couple of years back but never got around to it and only recently changed the battery in my original one, only to find it no longer worked!! (Has this happened to anyone else?) Anyway time to do both then, obviously.

One small concern I have is a few years ago while getting it serviced, my alarm system had an issue of sorts and it caused my mechanic no end of trouble and finally they sent it to some specialist auto elec guy who was Porsche's best guy and paid him sh#tloads to fix it but when I got it back, alarm works fine but the immobilizer doesn't seem to immobilise. I never really worried too much about it because I had the Quicktrack system installed and so just kinda tried not to let the alarm farce bother me too much.

So now I'm faced with potentially trying to reprogram 2 x fobs to a system which may or may not be working correctly anyway. What to do? I guess I've kinda just got to give it a shot and see what happens, eh?

My first step is trying to find the instructions which were on the old forum. Any ideas folks?

In case it matters, I have a 2004 K series 111S. The fob looks exactly like the Cobra one, but remember being told it was not a replaceable by a Cobra one - which I suspect was BS, but ended up finding an original second hand one anyway.

Your help and worldly advice, as usual would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Brett

Quantum's V Nitrons

Mon, 26 Jul 2010 07:50:41 +0000

Hi gang,
I'm about to place an order with Elise parts for a set of Nitron's 1 way adjustable, but Elise parts say go for Quantrums as they come standard with many extras not supplied with Nitron's. I.E- helper springs, locking rings, teflon separators,new suspension mount brackets and new bolts, nuts and washers.
Elise parts also claim excellent feedback from Lotus owners with Quantrums. Apparently the quality is the same and they are similar in price.
Anyone here have a view on this ?

ta Brian.

Engine Rebuild?

Mon, 19 Jul 2010 12:10:29 +0000

well following on from my last post ,it seems that the engine is in need of a rebuild , the liners have dropped or warped and the deck and head need to be squared up , my question is should i rebuild it or start looking for another one? also while the car is apart what can i do to beef up the cooling system so i can avoid this happening again , namely hgf and head distortion, also what other mods are worthwhile, am looking at improving the shift quality and also some performance gains , not only in hp but in handling as well, i know that these questions have been asked before. One final question where can i source a good quality rover k motor, vvc or non vvc as another option to a rebuild.Any advice is more than welcome.
sid

Ecu Service Flash For 1Zz Cars

Mon, 12 Jul 2010 22:37:35 +0000

A few people on here have reported electronic throttle issues with early 1ZZ cars. I have had a few instances of the car (2006 S) accelerating then going into limp home mode. OBD codes are something like throttle position and forced high idle. I have heard that there was a service flash to correct these issues however when talking to zagames they were sure that no such thing exists.

Is there a service flash for early build 1ZZ cars? If so, is there anywhere in Melbourne that can do it?

S2 Stats For Trailering

Thu, 08 Jul 2010 09:17:20 +0000

am looking at a used trailer they traded in and the vendor company has asked a few questions i couldnt answer .

the trailer deck width is 1.8 [ narrower than normal ? ] and he wants to know the following to see if its suitable for the lotus .......

car width / wheelbase / track widths / front axle weight / rear axle weight

anyone know this ?? all i know is its small and not that easy to get into .

thanking you in anticipation !

Std Nitrons And S2 With Modified Top Mounting Brackets

Sun, 04 Jul 2010 11:10:25 +0000

There was some discussion about this a few years ago when I was first thinking about getting Nitrons.

It seemed that consesus says that if you dont want to run your S2 way way low and you have the STD (ie not Randy or Carlo Nitrons, with a longer stroke)then you have to raise the upper mounting point to give the correct droop at somewhat normal ride heights.

Geoff111 trialed and mentioned that if you run 115/125 then to get the correct droop you need to raise the top mount point of the fronts by 12mm (ie drill a hole 8mm above the top of the existing hole from top bracket to chassis on the upper brackets) and to fix the back he fabricated new mounts and drilled the holes for the top eye of the rear Nitrons 10mm lower.

Today I finally fitted the one way Nitrons that have been in my cupboard for over 1 year. I modified the front brackets as above, I have not done the rears as yet. My springs are 400/500.

One the front I used 19mm of preload on the spring to give ride std ride height, I will modify this over time and trialing. I believe in setting preload to gain a desired level of droop, not ride height. If you want to change ride height you must change the top mounting point of the damper. I will test and document these changes later.

My question is;

Does anyone have a template for the rear shock mounts of a K-Series S2?

So I can make some new mounts for my shocks.

Adrian

R Spec Wet Weather Tyres

Sat, 26 Jun 2010 05:27:22 +0000

Gday.

Any thoughts out there on the grippiest wets to run for sprints and the upcoming 6 hr relay?

I currently run Kumho V70As in medium.

Any thoughts greatly welcomed.

Thanks very much. Not fond of the wet!

Elise/exige Workshop Manuals

Mon, 21 Jun 2010 23:43:24 +0000

Hi all,

This will be permantly on this address from now on for all of you to browse and refer to:

http://www.beddysblog.com/lotusmanuals.html

There might be S1 bits in there too but I think its mostly S2 and its up to date featuring the Exige CUP 260.

Soft Top Repair

Fri, 18 Jun 2010 09:02:13 +0000

The rear cable on my soft top has broken. Luckily it is still water/wind proof without it. I ordered a new cable but I can't fit it as the narrow channel won't allow u to feed the new cable in even without the scew thingy removed. At this stage there seems 2 options. 1 cut the knob off the cable and thread it through and get it recrimped. 2 Unpick the sewing and pass it through and get it resewed by your local upholstery person. Anyone done this?

Benefit Of Track-Focussed Parts

Fri, 18 Jun 2010 01:04:26 +0000

Hey,

Wondering if anyone knows roughly the benefit from making a few track-day oriented changes to my S2 Elise. How many seconds is a set of AO48s and Nitrons likely to shave from my time around Wakefield (the only Aussie track I've driven)?

Not looking to start a "what's the best track day mod" thread and, yes, I've done several driver training courses - I'm just interested in how much difference these changes make in the real world.

TIA

Front Spliter; Worth While Yes Or No?

Thu, 17 Jun 2010 11:40:46 +0000

I'm coming down from Canberra shortly for my '08 Elises final warranty service with Trivett (Dodgy LED display).

Anyhow have booked with Lee @ SSC for Stone chip film, he asked about the fitting of a splitter as a nose guard against bottoming out.
What I'm wondering is do other members use them as sacraficial grinding pads, or do they cause you to grind more often due to the reduced ground clearance?

Sector 111's Blade Packages For Exige S

Wed, 16 Jun 2010 08:10:38 +0000

Just noticed Sector111 has a couple of new offerings: Exige S Power-up Kits

*****************
Summary:

Kit#1: BLADE 275
RLS Intercooler
RLS 3.0" Pulley
Cup Airbox
BLADE 275 Tune
Dynapack Dyno: 245rwhp

Kit#2: BLADE 300
RLS Intercooler
RLS 2.9" Pulley
550cc Injectors
Cup Airbox
BLADE 300 Tune
Dynapack Dyno: 264rwhp
*****************

What do you guys think?

Exige S2 Wind Tunnel Aero Data

Tue, 15 Jun 2010 21:19:58 +0000

One run of data on a standard car then modified for increased downforce.

http://www.reverie.ltd.uk/Downloads/ReVerie_Wind_Tunnel_Test_Session.pdf

and articles by Simon McBeath:

http://www.reverie.ltd.uk/Downloads/Aerobytes-Aug07.pdf

http://www.reverie.ltd.uk/Downloads/Aerobytes-Sep07.pdf

http://www.reverie.ltd.uk/Downloads/Aerobytes-Oct07.pdf

Damaged Oil Cooler

Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:58:22 +0000

I had an "off" at Babagallos on Friday and damaged my front clam and bent the inlet into the oil cooler causing a leak. My question is what are these made of and can it be welded to seal the leak.

Car Overheating Help Needed

Mon, 14 Jun 2010 09:21:34 +0000

hi guys after taking the car down to wakefield for a supersprint on sunday (s2 rover) ,the car never missed a beat, but on the way home about 3/4 hr out of goulbourne after cruising at a pretty constant 110-120 on the highway back noticed the engine temp start to climb at first it dropped but within 5 min climbed and then did not stop , after finding a spot to pull over after which had a mass of steam coming out of the engine . After leaving it to cool down , added some more coolant,and water, but noticed the oil level was also down, put some more oil in it , then tried to get back to sydney,i ended up needing to keep it under 2500revs otherwise it would start to heat up again , the ambient temp was around 6 deg.
what have i done ? i did notice throughout the day some oil on the back of the car only some small drops of spray , not sure it was coming form the exhaust as it was on the other side of the car from the tail pipe , also the car seems to idle at almost 900,1000 revs , only noticed this since i changed the oil and got it on the road
some advice is really needed , is it a head gasket , is blow through an issue on these engines? are the seals gone ? does it need a rebuild? not sure where to start, how can i start the ball rolling myself , are there any tell tale signs ? etc....
remember also this is an ex mopro car, could the engine just be realy tired and in need of a rebuild?
any advice would be massively appreciated, (how much is the honda conversion again?)

sid

Fan Controller

Fri, 11 Jun 2010 11:08:54 +0000

For those of you with experience. It appears mine has stopped working since the car overheated recently. No longer cuts in at 97, now 102/103 again.

Any ideas? Those sensors don't melt do they?

Sequential Gearbox For Lotus

Fri, 11 Jun 2010 10:23:35 +0000

Discover the SEQUENTIAL GEARBOX QUAIFE for LOTUS

- 6 speed sequential dog engagement gearkit

- Straight cut, close ratio gears

- Shorter final drive ratios

- Compact drum type sequential design for a faster gear shift

- Includes gear lever and cable

- Includes new strengthened outer casing and all sequential mechanism

- Digital gear position indicator included

- Quaife ATB differential included

$8800 AUS

LINK

How much are kidneys going for these days?

Help Needed With Lights

Wed, 09 Jun 2010 14:41:51 +0000

hi guys i need some help urgently I was driving the car tonight and when i put the car in reverse the lights on the dash and my tail lights stopped working , pretty sure have blown a fuse, I think that it has something to do with a bad connection in where the reversing switch ties in to the harness.What i really need is some info ,where is the fuse for these lights located ,(where is the fuse box front or back) and is the reverse lights tied into the same circuit.

sid

Help Me Fing The Right Wire

Wed, 09 Jun 2010 07:05:03 +0000

Folks

I need to fit a relay switch for the water pump that feeds my new chargecooler. I have a red, black and green and need to tie into the engine bay wiring LHS. Normally you'd connect the red and black up to the main power leads, but these are now extended after fitting the Aussie Clamhinge kit the other week. If necessary I can tie/solder into teh leads part way along.

The green presumably goes back to an ignition connection/connected wire somewhere, but I've no idea where to start.

Suggestions???

My Exige Race Car Build

Mon, 07 Jun 2010 11:34:10 +0000

Racing. Expensive - YES, Addictive - ABSOLUTELY!!!!
So, I am building a real Exige race car.
After having fun in my Exige as a Production spec car, it's time to upgrade to the real thing.
after a recent track meet Neil Trama heard a funny noise in my engine and said it didn't sound as sweet as it should. After a leak down test (90%, 90%, 40%, 90%) he was correct. Broken piston due to poor fuel. Anyway, engine had to come out and while it was out I came across a smashed Lotus Elise jap import. It can never be registered here and was basically too good an option to pass up.

[IMG]http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/3117/p1000194en.th.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/6974/p1000191n.th.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/6596/091r.th.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/4328/090ct.th.jpg[/IMG]

Anyway, once the body work was removed I was able to check out the damage. The Elise was a 111R with all the good bits, so I have spent the last month swapping every part over to my Exige and putting that back to standard.
[IMG]http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/9974/041dk.th.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img532.imageshack.us/img532/288/046tt.th.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/2118/047qo.th.jpg[/IMG]

Once the body work was removed you could see what was damaged, so I measured everything up and all the main engine mounting points and suspension mounting points were ok.
Seeing as it's only going to be a race car I really don't care what it looks like underneath, as long as it's structurally sound.

Now its back to a a shell, and feeling like all I have been doing is going backwards for the last month, I am now ready to move forward.

Have powder coated the rear sub frame and refitted it. It looks great and will be a lot easier to keep clean now.
[IMG]http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/658/054zk.th.jpg[/IMG]

Have another window frame (from Simply Sports Cars) to replace the damaged one.
[IMG]http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/7227/057xe.th.jpg[/IMG]

Have now taken the doors off and have made some modifications to help save a bit of weight.
[IMG]http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/5199/061pe.th.jpg[/IMG]

have made some access mods to the sills and removed the damaged crash box (what a job that was) but still not as hard as removing the pedal box to replace it with a non ABS S1 pedal box
[IMG]http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/7716/048sf.th.jpg[/IMG]

Plan for the project is.

Engine
2ZZGE Tramatised
TVS Supercharger
Motec M800
BOE Fuel setup
MWR Fuel Rail
Acusump
Moroso Sump
Laminova Oilcooler

Gearbox
EXEDY Custom Clutch
MWR 3rd 4th gear
TRD LSD
SSC Gearshift Cable

Suspension
Nitron 3 way adjustable
Nitron Uprights
Nitron Steering arms
Nitron NMB Bearings all round
and much more to come......

Can Retro Fit Aircon To An Elise S2 (Rover)?

Mon, 07 Jun 2010 11:23:10 +0000

Looking to purchase a S2 Elise and wondering if its possible to retro fit Air Con as a number of cars I have looked at haven't had the factory option (which from what I understand isn't that great anyway??? )
Any information regarding this would greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Alternator Trouble

Mon, 07 Jun 2010 04:17:56 +0000

My alternator seems to have packed it in. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement alternator for a Rover S2 in Sydney?
I was thinking of trying to find a replacement instead of repairing mine (if possible) just to speed things up.

Thanks

Forgive More Of My Stupidity

Wed, 02 Jun 2010 03:00:09 +0000

So after upgrading the radiator recently, and then fixing the TPS, the car was finally running well last night and this morning. That was until I got stuck in a bit of traffic and it began to heat up.

It's done that a number of times since the upgrade, and the fan controller I put in with the radiator is kicking in when it should and controlling the temp fine. While meandering along in traffic the temps kept rising despite the fan, and while looking for somewhere to stop it went into the 110s and then heard a big "herbie-full-of-irish-coffee"-type burble from the engine bay, which was alarming, so I pulled over and let it cool down while I tried to figure out what has happened.

Now the work done on the radiator and pipes etc was completed probably a month to 6 weeks ago? maybe more, I can't remember exactly. Anyway, I opened up the boot and the coolant bottle was full to the lid and obviously had released some coolant under pressure as it had sprayed out a bit and collected in the tray and was dripping on the road.

I checked all the pipes and everything that I'd touched recently and it all looks ok.

I waited for 30-40 mins for her to cool down, opened up the coolant bottle, where the level by now was just under the filler neck. I then attempted to make it to work. Initially the temperature rose up to the late-90s and then as i got her moving up to about 80kph she still got hotter up to about 105, so the air wasn't helping. I was about to pull over again when all of a sudden the temp started dropping. It went all the way back down to 87/88 and sat there for the remaining 10 minute journey to work. It's now sat just below max in the bottle again.

Now with my experience to date (which is very little!) a couple of things spring to mind that could be the cause of this.

1. Thermostat could be on the way out? Not sure if this could result in the bottle filling up in this manner due to the coolant being unable to flow back to the radiator?

2. Trapped air pockets? During bleeding the system when putting the radiator in, it was impossible to get the rear bleed bolt out. It began rounding off in the process (it is on my list to drop into a garage to get replaced!). So bleeding was all done at the front where the clam was off. Giles was helping out, so can vouch for it squirting out hot coolant on his hands while I was checking the levels in the bay! If it was trapped air I'd expect the Stack temp to bounce around a fair bit, but this doesn't happen. It remains steady 87/88 deg on the road (88deg stat).

3. Too much coolant? During the bleeding process, I expected the thermostat to open and drop a load of coolant from the bottle, I did but it remained above the max marker. Once I ran the car in on the road it dropped down to 1 quarter below max and has stayed there until this issue this morning.

Any other ideas?

Cold Temperature And Weird Engine Reving...

Mon, 31 May 2010 09:16:42 +0000

My S2 Rover Elise has been a bit strange lately.....

Firstly, it has started to have erratic temperature. It always used to be at around 88 degrees except in traffic on hot days in which it would hit 102.

Now it wildly swings from below 70 to 93 in the space of a few minutes and for no apparent reason. The problem I had today was that when i was on the highway the car temperature kept dropping below 70 until it disappeared from the display. At this point (and actually at any temperature of about 75 and below) the car would behave strange in that it seemed to be lurching and self reving itself whilst i was driving. When i stopped at the lights this became more apparent. See the video below, the car was in neutral and my foot was not on the accelerator. I also tried it at speed and it was still doing it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30gySuKuKRk

Any ideas?

Thanks

Brendon

Aftermarket Oil Pans

Fri, 28 May 2010 13:32:55 +0000

I was wondering if the aftermarket oil pans are somewhat of a necessity for tracked Exiges?

If so - what's the better solution: Moroso Oil pan/S111's gPan/etc?

Thanks!

Pic of Moroso Oil Pan from Hangar 111:
http://www.hangar111.com/products/moroso/morosooilpan2zzge.jpg

Pic of S111's gPan:
http://www.sector111.com/images/products/performance/engine_electrical/gpan/gPANprodREG.jpg

Tps Replacement

Thu, 27 May 2010 03:34:40 +0000

Any S2 owners replaced one lately?

Do I need to use live computer OBD readings or a multimeter to ensure it sets right or can I use the manual reset method with the ignition on? Don't want to bugger up the new one!

Exige Boot Release

Sun, 23 May 2010 09:33:02 +0000

Have had a problem over the last couple of weeks where the exige boot/hatch would come open slighty while driving. It did it again today on the way home from the run. When I got home, I couldn't open it (the release leaver wouldn't do anything). Anyone had this problem before? I'll have a good look/go at it tommorrow.

Pressure Relief Remote Themostat

Wed, 19 May 2010 17:42:42 +0000

Anyone knows how long it takes to install a PRRT on a rover powered s2 elise? Zagame said it is a 3 hours job and quoted me $400 for the labour itself.

Moroso Oil Draining

Wed, 19 May 2010 05:59:01 +0000

Hopefully this saves someone at the small cost of exposing my stupidity.

Yes the rear undertray looks a long way from the drain bung but a full load of nicely warmed 0W40 will cascade out far enough to land on that rear undertray and turn your workshop into a pretty good replica of Prince William Sound after party night on the Exxon Valdez.

Reverse Lights

Tue, 18 May 2010 11:38:38 +0000

in my quest for rego have noticed that the reversing lights may or are not working ,i think it is the switch although not sure? is there a good way to test /find this? is there a fuse ? also where is the location of the compliance plate as i need to rivet mine in for a blue slip?
sid

Service Interval

Mon, 17 May 2010 02:17:23 +0000

When i bought my 07 Elise S the previous owner had lost the owners manual / service record. I bought a replacement from B&C which shows a service interval of 16,000Km. Is this consistent with the Australian documentation?

S2 Front Rotors

Sat, 15 May 2010 07:40:12 +0000

Hi all,

Can someone please tell me what size the front brake discs are in a 2004 111R? Thanks.

I need replacements and DBA has 2 sizes for them; 288mm and 296mm. Which ones are correct for me?

Oil/filter Change

Tue, 11 May 2010 07:08:18 +0000

hi guys need a bit of newbie help ,want to change the oil and oil filter ,in a rover k series 2
car is mainly used for motorsport . Any recomendations for viscosity etc for the oil ,brand type and part number for the oil filter and the biggie any tips or hints for making this simple procedure go smoothly (have done this numerous times on other cars) also what is the capacity of the sump ,ie how much oil do i put back into it after draining it?

sid

O2 / Lambda Sensors

Mon, 10 May 2010 02:38:13 +0000

Hey Guys,

Can anyone who's successfully completed this let me know how they did it and how tricky it was?

I finally got my car back on the road last week after all the front clam work, but there is a remaining issue to resolve since shipping the car over. Originally the TPS was out, I think due to the flat battery. I resolved that, but I also had a cylinder 1 misfire error on the OBD scanner.

I'm awaiting delivery of a OBD to USB cable to hook up to my laptop to check the live figures to be sure, but initial research shows my issue *could* be the pre-cat sensor. It's running pretty rich and I'm getting misfire/bumpy deacceleration, as well as a rough idle.

I'm just wondering if it's possible to get these sensors out by just removing the rear tray, or if it's a clam off or exhaust out job. I've heard they can be a bit of a b1tch to get out...

Cheers.

Ignition Problem

Sun, 09 May 2010 08:51:00 +0000

Went to start my Rover S2 Elise after work yesterday and I could not turn the key in the ignition at all. It was working fine before and this has only happened once about a year ago. Tried moving the steering wheel whilst trying the key for some time as well as going and getting my spare key to try.
I eventually (5hrs later) managed to get the key to turn in the ignition. I drove the car straight to the garage and tried starting it again and it wouldn't move again so it looks like I need a new ignition perhaps??

Do I just need to replace the ignition?? If so, where would I get one from? Have had a look on Elise-parts/shop but couldn't find anything...

Thanks

Brendon

Hubcentric Rings

Thu, 06 May 2010 07:13:14 +0000

Just need to know what sort of damage is likely if we run after market wheels without these. Any suggestions?

One of mine is missing since I got new tyres in March. Did not noticed much except the car didn't quite feel right. Also found out that my damper settings has been played with as well.

Rang the tyre ppl and they suggested that I'm barking up the wrong tree! Guess I'll be getting my tyres elsewhere. No one else has touch the car until the service today. My mechanic found one of the hubcentric rings missing. I found the damper settings were all over the place a few days ago chasing that weird handling issue.

Catch Cans For 2Zz

Wed, 05 May 2010 13:22:47 +0000

I've noticed that Sector111 offer Oil Catch Cans on their website.

http://www.sector111.com/images/products/performance/engine_electrical/catchcans/QWKcansFRONTmed.jpg

Any point in using them for a standard Exige S? If not - at what point (tired piston rings?) would they be useful?

Thanks!

Airflow To The Standard Air-To-Air Intercooler

Tue, 04 May 2010 08:58:59 +0000

This is a pic of BSK's Cup 240 Race car from BSK's website (BSK is a Japanese workshop catering for Elises/Exiges).

Has anyone tried such a setup? Positive results?

15/16 Wheel Combo

Wed, 28 Apr 2010 10:38:48 +0000

A question for those who know...
The yanks seem to be accepting of the 15" Front/16" rear rim/tire combination, rather than 16/17. What are the advantages of this setup versus the standard?

Not that I'm buying rims any time soon.... I think it's wiser to buy the car first
cheers, Vlad

Problem With Unlocking Fuel Cap

Tue, 27 Apr 2010 15:44:36 +0000

I've had this re-occurring but intermittent problem with unlocking the fuel cap from my Toyota Elise S.

Recently the key's been really reluctant to slide all the way into the fuel cap, and then it's reluctant to turn.

On my last servo stop (which was awhile ago, thank goodness for fuel economy!) I spent about 15 minutes trying to deal with the key not turning in the fuel cap!

I took so long because I didn't want to rush it, I wanted to take my time and not use any force. Because if the key got stuck in there I knew I'd be completely screwed.

I'm driving the Lotus to Canberra on Wednesday (that is, today!) to shoot an old school hot rod, I'm worried I'm going to be stuck in some Goulburn servo cause I can't get my key out of the fuel cap!

Has anyone else run into or heard of this issue happening before?

Thinking of spraying some WD40.

Time to resurrect my old "Newbie Questions/Issues" thread!

By the way, on a related note - it is incredibly embarassing rocking up to your local servo - having every eye there watching you tumble out of the car before angrily struggling to get the damn fuel cap open.

Elise S - Toyota Bgb

Tue, 27 Apr 2010 03:33:03 +0000

I'm about to start the road to an engine rebuild - i have spare engine already - am looking to beef up some of the known failure points of the 1zz ..

anyway, have been looking for the toyota BGB (big green book) that is the sort of bible of toyoa stuff ...

managed to find the mr2 spyder bgb online - spyder shares the same engine

engine repair: (which is all i am interested in)
http://www.northwestmr2.com/incoming/dutch/Toyota/mr2%20spyder/Repair%20Information/Repair%20Manual/06%20-%20Engine%20Mechanical/

full manual:
http://www.northwestmr2.com/incoming/dutch/Toyota/mr2%20spyder/

anyone else rebuilt a 1zz that can offer advice ?? Neil T ?

Cheers

Recommendations For Mild Performance Increases On N/a Exige And 111R

Mon, 26 Apr 2010 02:37:01 +0000

Hi all,

Am looking for ild performance improvements for above Elise/Exige models in the 2004-2005 build region as I am currently looking into buying such a car before the end of the year.

Any recommendations would be welcome. I'm very new to this forum and have never owned a Lotus (despite being passionate about the brand since I was a small kid); however, I would like to learn the basics of track driving in the future and think a mildly tuned 111r or N/A Exige would be the optimal mode of transportation to get all the madness started. Also, I'd really like to keep the car 'driveable'on the road as I will promenade around with it on sunny weekends.

Appreciate your wisdom on this.

Many thanks,

Jonathan

Diy: Removing The Heater-A/c Unit To Fix Fan Motor

Mon, 26 Apr 2010 00:10:34 +0000

Hi All,

Just been having fun removing the fan unit (and the HVAC unit from the car...)

Having an S2 with A/C means that I have de-gassed the system (properly!) and have now removed the Receiver/Dryer:

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/HVAC%20unit/IMG_0721.jpg

The next step is to actually remove the HVAC unit - To do this, I got advice from JoeA (thanks!) to remove the valve which connects the pipes between the HVAC box and the rest of the ca, from the drivers side inspection hatch...

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/HVAC%20unit/IMG_0719.jpg

[IMG]http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Cooling%20System/AC-connector.jpg[/IMG]

Next, the HVAC box could be moved upwards enough to let the fan unit rotate around, initially 90 degrees, then with a bit more heaving, a full 180 degrees, revealing the failed fan control unit, lurking underneath the rotated fan. A few squashed fins in the A/C grille too!

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Cooling%20System/IMG_0722.jpg

and closer, showing the failed/melted main motor connection:

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Cooling%20System/IMG_0723.jpg

And with the unit removed - showing just the +ve and -ve wires going to the fan motor. These are what I want to have permanent access to even with the motor back in place!

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Cooling%20System/IMG_0727.jpg

OK - I've now extended the fan motor leads, reassembled the entire HVAC and fan, and (temporarily) connected up the 3rd speed of the fan straight to the motor. This means I either get full speed, or nothing - which is preferable to getting nothing on any speed!

Now the A/C can be regassed - fingers crossed for no leaks.

Next step - construct a variable speed fan controller...

OK - seems like I need two 50Watt resistors, to control the slow and medium speeds:
Using this fantastic calculator:

http://www.blackfive...ent=20&Target=4

I see that I need 0.33 Ohms resistance for the medium speed (about 8 volts), and 0.66 Ohms for the slow speed (about 5 volts).
If I connect the two resistors together in series, I'll actually need just two 0.33 Ohm resistors to make the complete circuit...

Next stop: RS-Australia for the resistors: http://australia.rs-...294624311&Nty=1

50W, 0.33 Ohm - Part No: 160-887
Cost: $4.95 each - just a little cheaper than a Lotus Resistor Pack!

http://img-asia.electrocomponents.com/images/R107316-22.jpg

Securing the resistors in an aluminium box, with appropriate leads to connect the Low/Medium/High speed wires to, gives the following setup:

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Cooling%20System/IMG_0758.jpg

Now just need to attach the box to an out of the way spot near the fusebox, and...

Done!

Rob.

Help - Engine Code Poo12 Cam Position Over Retarding

Sun, 18 Apr 2010 05:56:38 +0000

Hi All,

I have a 2004 Toyota VVT Engined Lotus Exige. I am currently getting the engine light on and it is throwing error code POO12 Cam position over retarding.

I have changed a few parts on the engine including:
- VVT Cam Shaft Actuator
- VVT Sproket
-VVT Valve

I am still getting this light flashing up and i am now looking at having to pull out the engine to re-bulid...... This engine has good compression and has recently been rebuilt roughly 10,000 kms by previous owner, all upgrades were completed as the car was tracked a fair bit. I have also had the following work done to the car which i do not think has anything to do with this error but i will try it anyway:
- Gearbox fully re-built with KAAZ close ratio gear set
- New TRD racing clutch set-up
- New Cam shaft
- Custom exhaust
- Carbon plumbed air intake

Can anyone out there please help as i have been to a few mechanics here in Oz and no one can figure out why this engine is throwing a fault code.

Thank you,

-Ryan

Engineering Certificate For Modified Cars

Thu, 15 Apr 2010 08:52:46 +0000

Re: Engineering Certificate for Modified Cars
I've been stung before with my now only-track car so I was wondering if I could increase the performance of my Exige S (esp. power wise) but still have it fully engineered?

The problem with my other car was emissions. Of the 4 substances they check for, 2 of them were present excessively in my exhaust emissions and I was therefore unable to obtain an engineering certificate.

Anyone gone through the process successfully?

Power Loss / Sensor Problem

Sat, 10 Apr 2010 09:54:22 +0000

Hi Guys
I'm currently doing the Mt Alma Hillclimb which is a 2 day event. Everything was going great for the morning session but then mid way through my third run the car (Exige - 2zz) seemed to have a drop in power.
It may be a sensor / ECU related issue. It is NOT heat soak (have tested this from cold) & the engine is running sweet, no misfire/smoking/idle problems etc.
It pulls strong as normal up to 5k-ish and then is just flat to the redline, which is not normal for this car at all. Normally 1st and 2nd it just bangs on the limiter no probs; at the moment it takes its time getting there.
Any ideas? At the moment I have checked the MAF sensor - looks clean and OK. All the wires are in place etc. but I have no idea what to check next.
I can take the car somewhere later for a full diagnosis but if there is something easy I should be checking let me know because I want to get out there and kick some Evo butt tomorrow!

1Zz Engine Malfunction Indicator Lamp

Sat, 10 Apr 2010 06:49:47 +0000

The driving today and the yellow engine malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) came on, keyed off and restarted a couple of times but it still comes on shortly (5 seconds) after start up. The lamp is usually used to indicate emissions system issues, so i am guessing poor fuel quality has coated the cat with sulfur (last fuel was premium from 7-11, probably not a good choice but its the closest).

Anyone else had this problem? does it go away with a change of fuel?

Unfortunately i still have almost a full tank of the stuff. There is no effect to engine running so i am ok with it at the moment but may have to get the ecu read if fuel isn't the issue.

Kris

Exhaust Options For S2 Elise (Rover)

Mon, 05 Apr 2010 06:50:37 +0000

I'm sure this has been covered countless times but now the forums new what's the best option for a sports exhaust on an S2 Rover? Currently have the stock exhaust fitted but would like a bit more noise and to save some weight. Just looking at the muffler at this stage. Only use the car for weekends, trackdays, sprints etc so not bothered by a bit of noise.

Was looking at the Quicksilver single outlet exhaust with the rear panel delete from Hanger 111. Quicksilver Opinions? Too loud?

Cheers

Oil Temperature

Sun, 04 Apr 2010 15:12:29 +0000

I have fitted an oil temp guage and it shows that my oil temp takes ages to increase and maxes out at 65 degrees C.
Can the thermostat be replaced that is housed in the oil cooler sandwich plate ????

The manual says
"On all cars with front mounted oil cooler(s), the oil/water heat exchanger is replaced by a sandwich plate
incorporating oil take-off feed and return unions, with the redundant coolant hoses interconnected by a 'U' pipe.
A thermostat incorporated into the sandwich plate begins to open at 72ºC, and is fully open at 80ºC. When
open, oil is directed from the sandwich plate via a flexible hose within the RH sill panel, over the front wheel
arch liner to the top connection on the RH oil cooler (or joiner union on single oil cooler cars). From an outlet
union at the bottom front of the cooler (or joiner union), another hose runs beneath the crash structure to the
bottom of the LH cooler, from the top of which oil is returned via a third hose, running through the LH sill, back
to the return union on the sandwich plate."

My Windshield Washer Isn't Working !

Thu, 01 Apr 2010 07:05:07 +0000

Hi, i need some advice please.
My windshield washer is not working for some reason. I can hear the electric washer motor when I press the indicator stalk, but no water comes out on the windscreen. The water reservoir is full.
I assume its a blockage somewhere but don't know what to check.

Anybody had this problem ?

ta Brian.

Remove S2 Headlamp

Tue, 30 Mar 2010 08:50:09 +0000

Hi all

globe gone....
how do you remove the cover?

in the man it just says remove lense H O W

Performance Exhaust For Elise S (Toyota)

Sat, 27 Mar 2010 09:53:00 +0000

Hi All,

What options are out there? I prefer an off the shelf product, and so far I found Larini Sports in most of the US sites (S111, eliseparts). Is the mounting for the 1zz and 2zz the same? Since 1zz is not available in the us market. I am looking for better sound only, performance gain is a bonus.

Thanks
Gerald

Time For A New Splitter

Thu, 25 Mar 2010 02:44:20 +0000

Hit a possum last night

So when's the new group buy? Phil did the smart thing by buying a couple last time around, I think i'll do the same as well. hehe

Quick Release Boot - Possible?

Mon, 22 Mar 2010 09:48:26 +0000

Is there a kit out there to make your boot llid quick release eg like with bonnet catches?

Anyone seen a link?

Negative Camber

Wed, 17 Mar 2010 12:13:13 +0000

I have a set of lightweight steering arms from Eliseparts. They will allow me to get up to 2.3 degrees negative camber. I use my car daily but do a few track days and autocross/ hillclimb events.
My question is what are the downsides to running this amount of camber on my standard AD07s daily.
I run 888s on the track.And have SA Nitrons.
Rear camber is set at 2.4 degrees negative camber.

Taking The Head Off K Series Engine

Sat, 13 Mar 2010 21:45:34 +0000

I have had oil appearing in my coolant, accumulating in the header tank as an emulsion ever since I bought the car (2003 111S) a year ago. There is no water in the oil. If I clean the header tank out more oil accumulates. There seems to be only 2 ways this could happen. Either the seal between the oil way from the block to the head has partially broken down allowing oil into the water jacket but not vice versa. Also my car has an oil to water cooler. I know some MGF's had these so I guess mine, being a VVC engine, got one too. I can see the pipes running from the oil filter housing to the back of the engine with the right rear wheel off. This is obviously the other way oil could get into the coolant. However I can't find any information about the design of these to see if it is possible the leak is occuring there. Lee at SSC says he has never seen oil in the coolant without coolant in the oil. Does anyone have any idea what I should do? (And don't say time for a Honda, I know that already!)

The car could have been overheated before I got it as there was a coolant leak at the water pump and also the radiator has been repaired.

If I have to remove the head do I need to remove the rear clam or can this be done without removing it?

Looking forward to your good advice.

Thinking About Powder Coating My Wheels

Thu, 11 Mar 2010 11:59:21 +0000

Sick of wheel shopping, thinking of just powdercoating the stock rims... plus the stock rims are really nice and easy to clean.. hehe

Whats your pick?

Stock
http://www.eastonchang.com/lotuswheels/stock.jpg

Gunmetal
http://www.eastonchang.com/lotuswheels/gunmetal.jpg

Flat Black
http://www.eastonchang.com/lotuswheels/flatflatblack.jpg

Gloss Black
http://www.eastonchang.com/lotuswheels/gloss.jpg

Bronze
http://www.eastonchang.com/lotuswheels/bronze.jpg

Oh where did this come on.
http://www.eastonchang.com/lotuswheels/purple.jpg

Quantums Or Nitrons?

Thu, 11 Mar 2010 10:24:42 +0000

looking at some suspension upgrade and have narrowed down to the two (quantum or nitrons?). both price fairly closely (quantum being about 15% more). have heard alot of positive reviews on the nitrons since its been around for awhile now, but have not heard about the quantums (yet).

please advise...

S2 2Zz-Ge Geabox Oil Cocktails

Thu, 11 Mar 2010 00:11:41 +0000

Currently doing a few things to the car and one of them is to change the gearbox oil.

Using Redline oils and the recommendation is for MT-90, however I've noticed sector111 is now suggesting a mix of GM syncromesh (which is similar to Redline MTL) and MT-90.

Anyone using this?

Oh No............oil Leaking...........where To Start Looking?

Tue, 09 Mar 2010 00:27:47 +0000

Hi all

Got back from our monthly FnC run last night to discover where I normally park a puddle of oil. I obviously missed seeing it before heading out. This morning it was still leaking. On the weekend we did a 800km run down south. Heaps of fun, lots of 120kph 3rd gear corners, maybe too much fun. Also had my first track day the day before (Friday). The car was running beautifully for the track day, the run down south and last night's FnC run.

Had a very quick look this morning but nothing obviously wrong. The coolant is bright green which is reasuring. When I get home tonight I'll pull off the under trays and crawl under and have a look.

From this skeletal information anyone got any wise words of wisdom as to possible causes, solutions etc....

Shane

Oil Catch Cans

Mon, 08 Mar 2010 05:08:37 +0000

Hi guys,

what's the go with installing oil catch cans ? Are they illegal in Australia ? Any Lotus owners here have them fitted ?
Saikou Michi make a model for Lotus. It looks good.

Brian.

Elise 111R 2004 Hazard Light Switch

Mon, 08 Mar 2010 01:25:01 +0000

Hi everyone,

Unfortunately, SSC are flat chat at the moment so I'm going to try and tackle this myself - when pressing the switch nothing happens!!

Just wanted to confirm with someone out there whether the switch clicks at all when you turn it on? At the moment it depresses about four or five mm but there is nothing to suggest its engaging... I'm hoping its something simple like the switch not being seated properly. The aircon has been played with and the temperature control for the aircon doesn't do anything either so I'll be pulling this apart at some point - just want to get the rego squared away first.

Cheers!
Dru

Ali Radiator Selection And What Else To Do At The Same Time

Thu, 04 Mar 2010 04:24:39 +0000

Following on from the failed radiator thread here I have just discovered my original one is leaking...

So there appear to be a couple of options for radiators
Elise Parts (upgraded) - £ 299.95 + shipping
Elise Shop (triple pass) - €299.00 + shipping
SSC (triple pass) - not in stock for a couple of weeks

Price wise it looks to be Elise Shop who have the edge - but is their triple pass rad better than the Elise Parts one?

Also with the clam off what else needs to be done and what other parts (hoses etc) are likely to be required to do the job? I'm thinking of doing it myself so don't want to get half way through and realise that the car is going to be off the road for longer than planned due to missing bits.

All thoughts greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Steve

Who Does Dyno Tuning For Lotus?

Wed, 03 Mar 2010 05:08:35 +0000

Gentlemen,
planing a few mods for the Exige and was wondering about a dyno tune.

Anyone know where to go in Melbourne?
I have emailed a few workshops but they don't have the Ecu program to run Lotus.

ta Brian.

Best Battery

Tue, 02 Mar 2010 12:27:49 +0000

AE'ers,

Looks like I might be up for a replacement of my 4 year original battery soon.

What are the best alternatives for a NA Exige (Cup 240R), that will be driven every second week or more ? Are 'Odyssey' style batteries worth it ?

Cheers

Craig

What Is The Optimum Camber For Track Use

Mon, 01 Mar 2010 22:47:27 +0000

I can only remove 3 shims in the front, acording to the manual each 1.0mm shim makes 0.25 deg difference, will this be enough.

I suspect more may be required.

What is the best front Camber setting for track use.

Running standard ride height.

I am not talking for road use, I am aware of the possible tire issues.

I will alternate setup between road and track.

Thinking about fitting these to allow more.

Play In Accelerator Pedal

Sun, 28 Feb 2010 10:24:54 +0000

I have only noticed today some left to right play in the accelerator pedal on my car, maybe I noticed it because it is more than usual I don't know. Any one else noticed this on their car?

I did assume the lotus position and was upside down in the footwell to try and see if there was something loose but could not find the culprit. I did find the linkage for the accelerator was loose( all the nuts were tight so I suppose this is the way it is meant to be) but this did not contribute to the left to right play in the pedal.

I don't know what is wrong can anyone shed some light?

Exige (Toyo) Service Manuals?

Sun, 28 Feb 2010 03:52:58 +0000

I seem to remember someone on the old site posting a link to downloadable service manuals. If anyone can help I need the manual for a n/a '06 Exige. I'm guessing a 111R would have virtually identical parts/procedures.

Thanks
Warren

S2 Tyres - Anyone Tried Toyo Proxes T1Rs?

Fri, 26 Feb 2010 04:12:36 +0000

Toyo Proxes T1Rs come in 195/50/R16 which should fit std Elise S/R rims. Anyone tried them? They appear to be available (or at least easily orderable at Tyre Power and such like). Should be cheaper and longer lasting than the LTS Yokos. Any thoughts on using them for daily driving + occasional track days.

Cel Update

Sun, 21 Feb 2010 12:05:04 +0000

A quick summary; Back in December I was getting a CEL every 100km or so. Those of you who have experienced it will recognise the symptoms:

Sudden loss of power, CEL on, high running idle (1-2000 rpm), then conks out if you try to rev. Let it sit for a while then starts up as normal, with CEL light still on. After a few hours light goes off and everything is back to normal.

The codes coming up were P0638 - Throttle actuator control range/performance; and P2104 - Throttle up forced idle.

AE diagnoses - crappy DBW software and dealer installed patch required.

First attempt at dealer failed. Its possible they just reset the ECU the first time as when we went back for attempt #2 in January, they couldn't find the patch in the system. The patch was installed/reinstalled, with no problems since.

I know this is always risky, but 900kms or so later, I'm prepared to declare it fixed.
With the two known 07' S issues now out of the way (the other the dreaded radiator), I'm ready to start the 2010 "project". More on that later.

Brake/clutch Fluid Recommandation?

Sun, 21 Feb 2010 10:56:11 +0000

Hi,
My 12 months service is coming up and I am planning to supply my own fluids. I am planning to use Motul RBF600, I also see on the shelf there is a RBF660 for $5 more (per 500ml). Is it worth it? I do about 2-3 track days a yr and mostly road useage.

How much fluid do I need? In the manual it said 1.5L for brake and 0.5 for the clutch but I have read somewhere that it usually takes no more than 1 liter. How do I ensure that the dealer mechanic will use the fluid I supply and not put them aside for their personal use?

cheers

Wheels Off Set

Fri, 19 Feb 2010 06:09:12 +0000

i came across some wheels that look ok to me { http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/79/849/s2-spider-wheel-set/ }

they speak off the wheel size and the off set

Front 5.5" X 16" With an offset of 31.5mm

Rear 7.5" X 17" With an offset of 18mm

wheel size is right but is the wheel off set the same as on Toyota powered models

eg could i fit these to a 2009 S model

A Question For Scuffers

Thu, 18 Feb 2010 13:42:16 +0000

I know Iv`e posted this before, but no firm answers we really given. As there are others in our community that also run one way nitrons, this would help them also.

1. How long is do nitrons go for before a rebuild is needed?
2. Does the cars handling or the way it copes with bumps give any symptom? If so, what are some of those?

Thanks for your input.

Exige S Spring Rates

Thu, 18 Feb 2010 03:22:10 +0000

Doh, is this is the manual? Keen to find out what they may be for Exige S. I guess mine will be the same.

Anyone Re-Engineered The Door Opening Mechanism?

Mon, 15 Feb 2010 10:15:39 +0000

Went to open my door from the inside on the weekend and something came loose internally leaving me stuck inside the car. Luckily my daughter was with me so she was able to let me out by opening the door from the outside. Culprit was the dodgy nylon clip that attaches the actuating wire (if that's the right name for it) to the door lever. The NRMA guy did a temporary fix by wrapping some plastic coated wire around the clip the help it do it's job. Replacing the clip will fix it but that set-up is so fragile that I'm not confident that it won't happen again. I'm guessing others have had the same problem. Has anyone come up with a more robust solution? I wish Lotus would worry more about this sort of thing as component reliability really is these cars achilles heal (don't even start me on the cooling system). Still love the car but.

Red Light Comes On When Cornering

Fri, 12 Feb 2010 11:37:47 +0000

Hi,
I remember seeing a post on the other forum about a red light flashing briefly when cornering? Just wondering what it is?

Thanks

Patrick

Wheel Squeek On S2 Exige

Sun, 07 Feb 2010 05:47:14 +0000

Fairly high pitched squeek coming from the n/s front wheel. Doesn't sound like a wheel bearing grind and only happens at low speed and disappears when I brake. Can't see debris on the disc so I'm wondering what it can be. Any ideas?. Pads have lots of life in them.

Cheers
Warren

My Alarm Goes Off When It Rains

Thu, 04 Feb 2010 02:35:53 +0000

With the new forum and all that, I guess I should start a new "Newbie" thread for my car

Anyway, this dosn't happen very often but on occasions the proximity alarm sensor goes off when it rains.

It happens every time I wash the car (particularly the engine bay region) so I have always unlocked my car to wash it. But it also happens very rarely during rain, about 3 occasions so far in the 8 months of ownership so far.

It actually happened this morning when it was a very light drizzle!

Does this happen to anyone else? Is this a design fault, a reality of proximity alarm sensors, or to do with my with lemon again?

Have I got a water leak where I didn't know?

Engine Cutting Out @ 6500Rpm

Wed, 03 Feb 2010 01:26:39 +0000

Hi Guys

hope you can help

I have an unmodified toyota engined 04 Elise 111r. Taking the car for a blast around our local hills today I noticed that the rev limiter is kicking in way to early. In fact I am getting the following sequence of events.

5800rpm red light comes on
6200rpm engine comes on cam
6500rpm rev limiter cuts in

The engine is warmed and running it its normal operating temp of 87C.

Any ideas what the problem could be and is it fixable for a "home' mechanic such as myself?

Thanks for any help

Do Rover S2 Have A Maintenance Free Battery

Tue, 02 Feb 2010 14:46:40 +0000

Just wondering if our batteries need to be periodically topped up or are they maintenance free?

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2787/4324542951_da7d807271_o.jpg

2Zz Oil Pump Gears - Weak Oem Parts

Tue, 02 Feb 2010 03:33:07 +0000

Gday

Apparently a known weakness in 2ZZ engines is these OEM gears. On advice from Meridian Motor Sport and others it seems wise to replace the OEM parts which are known to disintegrate especially if the engine has been over revved. (which it hasn't as yet). And as a precaution.

Does anyone have experience of and relate the outlines of what is involved in replacing these, and any tricks or traps for the unwary?

The engine is in the car.

The gears cost 345.00, I'm hoping fitment cost might be linked to the parts cost but I have initial fears that it might be complex....

C'est la vie.

I hope a kind soul can help.

Arb Install - Front Clam Off Or On?

Mon, 01 Feb 2010 05:57:56 +0000

Guys just looking to confirm...

With the installation of a new ARB on a 2003 K-series Elise is this a clam off or clam on job?

The Front Came Off!

Sun, 31 Jan 2010 08:30:33 +0000

With the help of Richard "the Wizard" Cooper and Steve "Techman" Melitzky, the clam came off the front of the green machine on Saturday morning.

It was a first for all of us, and while it was time consuming, we learned a lot in the process. We used the SELOC tech wiki as a starting point, and while those notes were based on an S2 Rover, there were not too many differences. There's a pic here somewhere of the green machine sans clam.

The major differences we found from the techwiki were:

1. No electrical boxes on the clam (ergo, easier to pull the whel lining out to make more space to work)

2. Most fittings were for an 8mm or 10mm socket

3. You may as well remove the door hinge cover panels. Probably not essential, but very easy to do

4. The 07 model (and possibly models thereafter), have a different headlamp arrangment to the one in the wiki. In the 07 "s", there are 3x17mm nuts and one 8mm nut to remove. You then disconnect the plugs, and push the whole unit out of the clam, resting it back in place when removed.

5. In addition to the single 10mm fixing at the bottom front of the clam, there is a 5mm Hex head nut underneath the bottom of the headlight unit.

Further post to follow with our notes on fitting the new Eliseparts radiator....

Fixing Heat Soak At S2 Exige S Intercooler

Tue, 26 Jan 2010 21:13:41 +0000

Well, decided to have a go at some easy fixes for heat soak to keep those intake temps down.

First step: A trip to Supercheap bought me an off the shelf piece of waffle aluminium heat shield - just the right size to sit under the intercooler. Cut 4 holes so it sits down below the mount rubbers, and then cut a hole to access the dip stick.

Results are surprising. A couple of rule of thumb tests. Went for a 60min cruise on a warm night, ambient air about 25 degrees. Checked intercooler temp by hand, pretty much the same as ambient. Engine below, hot as usual. Tells me the roof scoop does feed cool air, mine is the extended scoop which comes forward to windscreen. The issue of taking hot radiator air from the front into the scoop may not be such an issue.

Second test, a 90 min freeway run, similar results, maintained cooler temps and perceptible boost throughout. Lots of fast accelerations to test boost. Fuel consumption way up, must be boost levels. Ambient air about 30 degs to start.

The thermal separation achieved with just the 60.00 heat shield I would say will account for most heat soak issues up to about 30 degrees celsius in normal running.

Stop start traffic, and fast track sessions with breaks in between, this is going to be different, as the intercooler sits there taking hot air from below, once stopped. Shield helps, but hard to fix that one. A wet towel might be the go here.

Second step: wrapped the air flow pipes b/n supercharger and intercooler, and intercooler and intake with 'cool tape' - reflective insulation. Better again. The whole 'cool side' above the new shield stays cool as a unit. I guess that means what's below is hotter, could be a problem. Anyone have a view?

Third step: took a line off the windscreen washer bottle to a set of irrigation sprays mounted at the intercooler plenum so I have 'on demand' cooling for as long as the washer bottle lasts. Also wrapped the washer bottle in cool tape, this keeps it cool(er) even after that 90 minute freeway run. No point spraying hot water to keep the intercooler cool. Also piped in a second tank (wrecker Mercedes) to keep the washer bottle topped up. 5 litres total water volume. Just have to remember to pull the windscreen washer on when power is needed...(electronic pulse switch by Jaycar will fix that when I get around to building it)...and to take the windscreen wiper off its mount on the track. (Thanks to Mark O'Connor for advice here).

Test and Third step Three this Sunday at Sandown.....will report back, 34 degrees forecast.

Total cost above maybe 200.00 and a bit of time.

Waiting for that Simply Sports Cars kit....which does all of this elegantly I am told.

Steps One and Two make the car feel like its running 'cold' all the time- pretty much like when you first start up. Makes me realise how much power is lost in warm weather, which happens by stealth and one tends not to notice until its back.

What Should I Do?

Sun, 24 Jan 2010 09:17:17 +0000

Hi Guys,

I am sending in my Exige 05 (Toyo engined) to get the synchro's fixed in second gear as it is slightly worn. As this involves removing the rear clam (expensive, time consuming) i am wanting to find out weather i should be looking to do anything else appart from replace the clutch whilst the clam and box are off.

Thanks,

-Ryan

Dash Problems

Sat, 23 Jan 2010 04:50:15 +0000

Thought I would repost this again bescaue I posted on the other Forum.

Those suffering Dash problems (MY 07 on)

Check to see if your Dash has the Latest software

1. Make sure the ignition is off
2. Open the Drivers side door
3. With the ignition off, Hold down the Trip meter reset button and turn the ignition to the on position
4. The LCD will display your Dash Software version
5. Make sure you have a version Later than VER.0.04 or VER.0.07 These Versions have issues with calibration
and CAN bus Noise.
6. Dealers are supossed to upgrade the dash firmware during Service.
7. If you have the early versions above, get your dealer to apply the upgrade, This is NOT a reflash of
the ECU
But a specific Reflash of the Dash.

Tyre Options For Standard S2 Elise Wheels?

Wed, 20 Jan 2010 11:53:46 +0000

i'm on the market for a set of R-compound tyres, particularly the Kumho V70A. Has anyone tried fitting the 205/50/16 to the front of a standard set of wheels?

if thats not possible, then what are my options besides the yoko a048's?

Exige S Oil Coolers - Draining Oil

Mon, 18 Jan 2010 09:50:45 +0000

Wondering if there are any tips or tricks for draining the coolers- pls advise any tips if poss. Or is it completely straight forward ?

Cheers

Michael

Windscreen Replacement

Mon, 18 Jan 2010 08:52:28 +0000

Can anyone share their experience with replacing their front windscreen?

I am up for a new front windscreen, any my insurance company has told me to take it to o'brians quote the claim number and get it done. What I really want to know is it that easy to replace, is there anyone in Brisbane that can be recommended.

Any advice would be appreciated.

jp

Suspension Squeek...

Sun, 17 Jan 2010 12:16:49 +0000

Howdy,

seem to have developed a squeek/creak/groan in what I assume is my rear suspension. Is noticable when driving, and equally so when pushing down on the rear of the car.

From what I can tell the first step is to grease what ever bushes I can find on the rear suspension with White Lithium Spray Grease.

Just wanting to check peoples experience, is that the stuff to use, and is a usual culprit for this the upper and lower ball joints on the wishbones?

(Mal - I think the car is upset with me because I STILL havent installed that K&N filter )

Thanks,
Damian

Front Clam Off?

Sat, 16 Jan 2010 10:13:45 +0000

Radiator went on my 07 Elise S today (seems to be becoming a familiar tale). One month out of warranty (oh joy!). Looks like its a clam-off job. Anyone have any advice on how to tackle the clam?

Dismantling S2 Soft Top

Sat, 16 Jan 2010 01:20:43 +0000

My S2 has a touring pack fitted which means extra sound proofing on the soft top. The panel of insulation is coming out of the slots on the cant rails and needs to be reglued. To do the job properly, I need to pull the trim panel off the cant rail - trouble is that it is a press fitting and no obvious points to assist removal. I've done some gentle prising in different places, but nothing is moving.

To try and avoid breakage, has anyone had a cant rail apart before who can advise how to remove the trim cover?
Thanks

Giro Race Brake Discs - 2 Piece

Fri, 15 Jan 2010 21:37:30 +0000

Just fitted (thanks David M), 1kg lighter at each corner than the AP Racing and OEM rears. Awesome long and deep braking on a hot day. Improved road suspension feel with less unsprung mass, seems to lope and follow more over bumps rather than rebound and jar. Recommended.

Another Blown S2 Radiator!

Fri, 15 Jan 2010 10:18:31 +0000

Yes, mine has gone. Split the plastic end tank on the passenger side.

I know I have read of it recently happening to others, can I get a refresher, has it hapened to you?

This seems too bloody common.

If they know they are crap......................grrr.

Even Sector111 list they are known for cracking.

Anyway, I'm not keen to just replace it with another weak designed one so I just ordered a new 3 flow from Sec111.
Was slightly cheaper than Elise parts as they have it on sale at the moment.

Alarm Fob

Fri, 15 Jan 2010 06:54:24 +0000

I remember this was a topic on AE1 and somebody posted where you could get the rubber keyring attachments that attach the fob to the key. My second one broke this morning so both are broken now. I was going to order a couple of BWR unikeys but it doesn't look like you can get them anymore. I can't locate them on the site anyway...

Had a Mister Bean moment right after it happened.... I was parked in a shopping centre carpark. Got back to the car, disarmed the alarm and put the alarm fob in my pocket. Got in the car and as folded myself in the alarm button got pressed in my jeans pocket. So I'm struggling to get in out of my pocket, not panicking or anything, and as it nears the tighter top part of my pocket it flicks out and goes under the effing seat! So alarm is now armed and if anyone has ever tried to retrieve anything from under the seat in an Elise they can imagine what was about to happen. Alarm went off, I'm kneeling beside the car stuggling to get the fob out from under the seat for at least 5 or 10 minutes. Looked really dodgy.... one guy came over to make sure I wasn't stealing the car!

Anyway, if someone could enlighten me as to where I can get the bits I need or if anyone has any spare unikey kits they want to sell (Phil?) that would be great....

Mp62 Sc Unit

Thu, 14 Jan 2010 22:31:07 +0000

group buy being lotustalk - $960 for the eaton mp62 unit !

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f95/feeler-group-buy-mp62-supercharger-salvaged-katana-bwr-kits-82525/

Diy - Tilt Your Clam

Thu, 14 Jan 2010 01:33:10 +0000

What is really annoying with the Elise design? Well, from a maintenance point of view, number one is the lack of room to access the engine. In order to remove the clam, you need to remove 22 bolts (yes, 22), some of which require seat removal for access.

Although an Elise-owner in the USA has made (and sold) a hinge mechanism for the rear clam of the US-spec Elise, that design was never going to work on my Rover-engined S2, because of major differences in the boot design between the UK and US versions of the Elise.

After many paper mock-ups, I re-modelled the US “2-bar hinge” idea to work on my car by changing the dimensions and attaching it to the outside of the chassis rail, fastening it to the rear of the clam, behind the wheel arches. (Incidentally, this version will work with any model of S2 Elise (and Exige…)

To make the clam hinge, I’ll detail the work I did below; the result is full access to the entire engine area of an Elise: well worth the effort!

If you want to do this mod, check all measurements twice before you commit to the design I used, in case of small differences between vehicles. Small changes in hinge design or location could result in a non-working hinge.

The list of things I did can be broken down to the following steps:

1. Construct the hinges,
2. Construct a rear diffuser support,
3. Remove clam,
4. Cut the wheel arch liners (and reinforce them),
5. Re-locate battery to boot,
6. Fix rear diffuser support to chassis,
7. Fix hinges to chassis,
8. Fix hinges to clam,
9. Lengthen rear lighting wiring loom,
10. Fit cable to hold clam when raised.
11. Modify fuel cap surround to allow clam movement.
12. Fit 6 thumb knobs to hold clam.

Step 1: The 2-bar hinge allows the clam to rise up almost vertically initially, then “flip” backwards later in its travel. The following diagram shows the measurements of this hinge. All bolts are in double-shear, to reduce the stress on any part of the hinge mechanism.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step1a.jpg

Dimensions:
A-B: 80mm
A-C: 110mm
B-D: 150mm
C-D: 40mm
D-E: 30mm
E-F: 120mm

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step1b.jpg

Hinge Parts:

4 x M6 s/s countersunk allen-key head 50mm bolts,
4 x M6 s/s countersunk allen-key head 40mm bolts,
16 x M6 s/s nuts + 16 x zinc washers,
1 metre x 3mm x 20mm flat aluminium bar,
1 metre x 1mm x 20mm x 20mm hollow square aluminium rod,
1 metre x 1mm x 25mm x 25mm hollow square aluminium rod,

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step1c.jpg

Step 2: The rear diffuser was originally attached to the numberplate mount, which itself was riveted to the clam. After complete removal and disassembly, I constructed a replacement mounting that incorporates the number plate (and black surround), but attaches to the exhaust hangar’s bolt holes, underneath the rear chassis rails.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step2.jpg

Rear diffuser support Parts:

1 metre x 3mm x 30mm x 10mm “L” shaped aluminium rod,
1 metre x 1mm x 20mm x 20mm hollow square aluminium rod,
1 metre x 1mm x 15 mm x 15 mm “L” shaped aluminium rod.

Step 3: Remove the clam: remove the seats and rear bulkhead to gain access to two annoying bolts just behind the shoulder of the driver and passenger, and the 4 bolts holding on the engine lid. Remove all 8 allen-key bolts surrounding the fuel filler cap, and then remove the fuel cap and prise off its surround. Using two people, first lift the clam up about 20 cm, and then move it backwards until it clears the chassis.

I removed the engine lid from the clam, and reinstalled it so that the lid is only attached to the clam (not to the bulkhead as originally set up). A flat aluminium rod between the mounts keeps the fibreglass strong.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step3.jpg

Step 4: The wheel arch liners were now exposed in all their glory. I cut across them, approximately in line with the chassis rail, so that the cut-off piece could be re-attached separately to the clam later. My early 2002 model had fairly flimsy wheel liners, requiring reinforcement with some flat 1m x 10mm x 3mm aluminium bars curved to suit, and riveted to the outside of the liner to keep their shape.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step4a.jpg

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step4b.jpg

Step 5: Now there was room to see how to fit the diffuser support - the only place to attach it to was via the exhaust hangar bolts. I then re-attached the diffuser to it. Rock solid, luckily!

Step 6: Relocation of the battery to the engine bay was optional, however since I had the space, I did so, and since this meant just using the existing cabling, it was an added bonus. I placed the battery upright in a custom-made aluminium tray bolted to the plate that normally supports the air filter. I had removed the original filter years ago, so there was just room for the (half-size) AGM battery there. Note – a standard Elise battery just won’t fit here – only an Odyssey or Deka (or similar) half size/weight unit.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step6.jpg

Step 7: Measuring where the hinges should be attached to the rear chassis rails, I drilled two holes in the hinge and two matching holes in the side of each rail. Using 2 x M6 hex-head s/s bolts, each with two locknuts and washers inside the chassis rail, the hinges were very secure.

[attachment=51:IMG_3688.jpg]

Step 8: Now to fix the hinges to the clam: I rested the clam back in position, and then marked (looking upwards in the wheel well) where the hinges should be bolted to the clam. Off with the clam, drill four holes in line with hinge holes, and replace the clam. Fitted the 4 x M6 x 40mm s/s hex-head bolts through the hinge, aligned to meet up with M6 captive nuts clipped to the underside of the hinge, and the clam was now attached to the hinge. At this point it was good to have a ~~beer~~ cold drink and ensure the clam moved up and backwards without scraping something!

Step 9: I then used a metre of trailer cabling (7-core) to lengthen the wiring loom for the rear lights. The existing wires were cut and the new cabling was soldered in and then heat-shrunk.

Step 10: Some thin stainless steel braided wire from a marine shop (Whitworths) created a stop for the rearwards movement of the clam. This was attached between the chassis cross-member and the boot release plinth.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step10.jpg10.jpg]

Step 11: I had to cut the existing fuel cap surround flush with the inside of the clam, so that it could slide over the inner fuel cap mounting when raising the clam. I went to a metal fabrication place, and 1 minute later on a lathe, the cap was sliced in half. I then used just two cut off hex head bolts to secure the thin surround to the clam. The other six are cut off and just glued in to the surround. When lifting/replacing the clam, just have to remember to remove the fuel cap first!
EDIT: No need to do this, as I found out when making the "spare" clam tilt... Just remove all 8 hex bolts from the cap surround, and remember to remove it (after the fuel cap) before every tilt. When in place, the clam is sandwiched between the fuel cap filler backing plate and the surround, via the fuel cap which holds everything in place!

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step11a.jpg

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step11b.jpg

Step 12: I used six M6 thumb knobs to use to quickly tighten the clam to the chassis via the interior of the boot, and two more smaller knobs for the air intakes. These are available in Australia from a company called RS Components (http://australia.rs-online.com) with stores around Australia. (250 Beatty Rd, Archerfield. QLD). The part number you need is 286-9328 (pack of 10).

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step12a.jpg

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step12c.jpg

The clam is therefore held to the car using 14 bolts/knobs, 10 of which are removed when lifting the clam – and there is no movement or squeaks at all. I attached foam tape where the clam might rub when lifting, just in case.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step12b.jpg

And…that was it…time for another ~~beer~~ cold drink. Total cost: less than $200. Aluminium is available from Bunnings/Mitre 10, bolts from any specialist Bolt shop, and knobs from RS components.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step12d.jpg

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step12e.jpg

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy114/stevensr34/Clam%20Hinge/Step12f.jpg

I must acknowlege the groundwork done by "TurboPhil" on the US Lotustalk site, which led me to decide I could do this myself!

Cheers. Rob.

Rovere K Series Engine - How To Look After

Tue, 12 Jan 2010 02:28:46 +0000

Fellow aussie elise bretheren ,

I have a 2004 Lotus elise 117 with a K series engine.

I know the K series has been given a lot of bad press abnout reliablity, however some swear by the engine design and reliablity.

I wanted to know the best way to look after the engine whilst driving. Is it true that head gasket failure (HGF) etc are unlikely if the car is treated properly and not 'thrashed'?

Before every drive if one ensures that he doos not open the throttle to much/rev too high before the engine is warmed up (86-92 degrees?) is this HGF minimal.
Also the previous owner stressed that he took the car to 4,5000 to 6,0000 revs because most of the power in the k series comes in this range, am i "thrashing" the car taking t to 5-6 thousand reves seeing as the maximum revs are 8 throusand. Basically how should the car be driven/how is it designed to be driven?

The newbie, Mike.

Latest Mods / Upgrades

Mon, 11 Jan 2010 00:12:29 +0000

tang0_au
So i've spent the last month or so under the car doing 'stuff' well, not literally the entire month, but a couple of weekends, and a few evenings ...

the plan:
6 speed gearbox
moroso oil pan
battery cut off switch
bigger heat exchanger for water cooling component of supercharger intercooler.

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/1.JPG

Gearbox & new clutch - 2nd hand box sourced for a bargain price of $500 ! exedy HD clutch.

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/2.JPG

getting gearbox off

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/3.JPG

nearly there.....

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/4.JPG

Elise R shifter tunnel - sourced from the US - $300 inclusive of shifter cables. you do have to bend the shifter shaft away from the driver as its bent to fit a left hand drive, otherwise the whole unit just bolts on.

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/5.JPG

gearbox finally off - not too hard to pull out really ...

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/6.JPG

new clutch installed - luckily no one can see the pink when the gearbox is installed !

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/7.JPG

support engine from below and lift gearbox up, slide into place - sounds easy but kinda tough on your own !

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/8.JPG

installed !!! (well deserved beer time now)

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/9.JPG

from below

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/10.JPG

cartek battery cut off, i ended up supporting the local economy rather than saving $ and sourcing from overseas ... REALLY REALLY REALLY easy to install.

cont....
24-12-2009 09:24 AMtang0_au
http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/11.JPG

oil pan off - jeez that was a pain, basically destroyed the stock oil pan getting it off, whatever RTV sealent toyota use is extremely strong - which leads to a pic of cylinder #3 - the weeny ickle rods of the 1zz-fe engine ...

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/12.JPG

moroso oil pan - from monkeywrenchracing - direct bolt on to 1zz or 2zz engines, properly baffeled internally and hold 6 quarts of oil - 5.68 litres !!! with all the extra oil in the oil cooler / lines i filled it with around 6.5 litres !

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/13.JPG

pan installed with new high temp rtc sealent.

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/14.JPG

shifter tunnel installed with shift cables.

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/15.JPG

a while ago i moved the stand alone ecu to the inside of the car, behind the passenger seatbelt - lots o space there ... at the same time i removed the plastic trim behind the seats and carpeted it all - my elise S didnt have a touring pack, put $50 of carpet and $100 of lightweight dynamat has made a real difference to sound deadening ... also installed easily removable subwoofer & amp .. as i drive a lot to work & back i like a decent sound ...

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/16.JPG

interior battery cut off / reset switch.

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/17.JPG

installed these a while back - top turns on launch control, middle one turns off traction control, and bottom turns on data logging with the switch controlling data log modes.

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/18.JPG

external battery cut off - just a weather proof push button - if it gets pressed while its parked, just reset it with interior switch ...

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/19.JPG

new rad for cooling water from air/water charge cooler in engine bay - custom fabricated by maitland radiators who were extremely helpful, also put baffles in the end tanks to make sure there is even flow over through the bars. i could have gone slightly larger in core side, but i wanted some clean air to get to the aircon & engine coolant rads.

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dec09/20.JPG

this has been here for a while, also cools chargecooler water after the main rad. sits in right hand side pod at the front of the car - its a rad from a kawasaki offroad motorbike with customised inlet & outlet. this space is taken up with oil cooler in the elise R. my oil cooler sits in the left hand side pod in the engine bay - curently ..

thats it for the pics -

air intake temps so far have not exceeded 40 deg c with ambient air at 32deg c. not yet tested on track tho ...

gearbox is SMOOTH (was a bit worried about 2nd hand box if it would be ok) the 6 speed bolts DIRECTLY onto the 1zz block, absolutely no mods to make it fit. it came off a standard '06 corolla sportivo. no idea how many kms are on it ...
it makes a really nice difference to the drivability, keeps revs up all the time, which is great for the S/C - but i find myself going through the gears VERY quickly ...
you dont need to change the clutch, and mine was not slipping, but as i'm running more power and the box was off, i'd be silly not to do it.
The oil pan, well, it works - but its hard to really tell any difference without being on track. but more oil CANT be a bad thing. the stock oil pan is basically not baffled at all, there is a sort of windage tray in it, but its too far away from the bottom of the pan to make much difference to oil pickup. i figure that with the extra power, r-spec's and ohlins the mid corner G is prob creating oil starve although i couldnt prove it with data logs ... i still have fuel starve issues, but thats being addressed.
battery cut off switch just works, so easy to install, and a great safety mod.
24-12-2009 11:43 AMgeoff111
Nice work Baz... was wondering why you needed to change the shifter, then I remembered you car started life as the base model 5 speed...Not much of the original car left now :grin: (bit like mine!)
24-12-2009 11:45 AMtang0_au
thanks !
yeah, needed the reverse block out - the orig shifter would work as far as the H pattern went, but the new cables are a LOT smoother than the std ones and wanted the pull collar to allow reverse engage ...
my neighbour commented that there couldnt be much left of the std car - engine block, body, chassis, seats ... umm ...
24-12-2009 03:08 PMCUP_240
AWESOME !

Someone's been bloody busy

The Elise is coming along very nice mate, and props to you for doing it all yourself.
24-12-2009 07:16 PMsooley
The oil pan not only helps with greater volume of oil, but being alloy takes SO MUCH of the heat out of the oil too. Once driven, you can't touch the oil pan for at least an hour after turning the car off.

Where did you end up buying the cutoff switch?

The pics are a sad reminder of what my car looks like right now.

Stripped 3rd gear and am currently waiting for new 3rd 4th Monkey Wrench gear set to arrive.

Hope they last a bit longer.

Interesting fact too, the Celica/Corolla box has a different shift spring. Lout put a stronger spring in to get a better shift gate feel. Easy enough to change I believe and should make the box feel even better.
24-12-2009 11:36 PMbanzai
Baz, you mad professor you. Keep up the good work. I always find the projects from you and Richard Cooper fascinating and inspiring.
25-12-2009 09:25 AMNoel
Well done Barry, looks good. Love the front radiator and 6 speed conversion. :cool:

Hopefully you don't get any leaks from the sump. Mine were leaking from the multiple drain plugs for quite awhile.
25-12-2009 09:56 AMHolmz
Nice Work Bazza
With some pink Quantums, you could colour coordinate with the clutch.

Which stand alone ECU are you using and does the alarm etc still work with that ? or can the engine start up without pressing the key forb.
25-12-2009 10:28 AMrob 240r
barry , amazing work :cool: ! how do you do it ?

why not try a v6 conversion for the next party trick . R32 motor should fit . :wink:
25-12-2009 12:01 PMtang0_au
thanks for the words of encouragement guys

the instructions from moroso say that you need to add sealant to the plugs and re-install them if you are not using them for turbo oil return ... which i did, and dont seem to be having any leaking issues ...

holmz - have been using http://www.vi-pec.com/page_files/V88.html since the SC - i've been REALLY happy with the results, LOTS of features and a fraction the price of a similar featured motec !

sooley - got it from a rally shop in VIC, the guys on the 'dealer page' from the cartek website. its more expensive to buy from aus - cheaper to buy in the UK and ship it, but they had it in stock and the car was apart and ready to install.... also demon tweeks refused to ship to a different address than the credit card is registered to ...
shame to hear about 3rd in yours are you going for a stronger set ? c-one ? last time i heard Lee at SCC had a 'spare' set of c-one c64 gears ... interesting to hear about the stronger spring, you know how tight my shifter felt before, its really nice and loose now, you can feel the gears engaging, much better !

i'm still in two minds about the next plans ... i have a spare 1zz engine - do i just built (stronger rods, pistons, polished & ported head, cams etc etc) which i know will be good for 300hp at the wheels ish ...
OR, just go 2zz ... which opens up a lot more options for later on - rods, pistons, turbo (compound charge?)
i think i know the answer, but its just the hassle of doing it ...
25-12-2009 06:38 PMsport400R
Looks good Barry :smile: Admire how you do everything yourself..... :razz:
25-12-2009 07:56 PMsooley
i'm still in two minds about the next plans ... i have a spare 1zz engine - do i just built (stronger rods, pistons, polished & ported head, cams etc etc) which i know will be good for 300hp at the wheels ish ...
OR, just go 2zz ... which opens up a lot more options for later on - rods, pistons, turbo (compound charge?)
i think i know the answer, but its just the hassle of doing it ...
[/quote]

Just buy a spare 2ZZ engine and swap it once you have built it.
Chat to me further if you do the build.

I am buying the new Monkey Wrench racing stronger gear set. It has slightly better ratios and is "supposed" to be stronger but we will see.
25-12-2009 11:26 PMRicharNHCooper
I saw this post and had to say something.I have a MWR gearbox with the new ratios and a 3.9 LSD but it was just too tall so I put the 4.5 ratios back onto the new LSD and it is perfect. Fast off the line but much more relaxed on the highway. Since installing the 3 inch pulley (from 3.2) I now have an annoying resonance at 1200 and 2500 rpm. I think the SC may have been damaged when it dropped its oil seal a few months ago. I just don't have the energy to pull it down again ATM so I am looking to install the BOE clamhinge in the new year. As for projects I have talked to Phil about putting a TVS blower on my present manifolding so I get the TVS efficiency and have it A2A intercooled as it is now, but no-one has done it yet. Apparently Lee is doing a TVS setup with A2W intercooler but that is too complicated for me. Time will tell as the new year should bring a few more options for those of us who are power challenged!

QUOTE (banzai @ 24 Dec 2009, 09:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Quote:

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Baz, you mad professor you. Keep up the good work. I always find the projects from you and Richard Cooper fascinating and inspiring.[/b]
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28-12-2009 02:40 PMHarto
Great work Barry - love watching your mods - keep it coming
28-12-2009 05:56 PMmoc

QUOTE (Richard Cooper @ 25 Dec 2009, 11:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Quote:

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As for projects I have talked to Phil about putting a TVS blower on my present manifolding so I get the TVS efficiency and have it A2A intercooled as it is now, but no-one has done it yet. Apparently Lee is doing a TVS setup with A2W intercooler but that is too complicated for me. Time will tell as the new year should bring a few more options for those of us who are power challenged![/b]
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The SSC TVS kit is designed to fit the standard air to air intercooler setup. In fact that is exactly how my car was setup for the initial TVS shakedown and test. The results were great and a big improvement over the MP62 with A2A.
28-12-2009 06:07 PMDavid Sparavec
Shut up Mark!....They can all find out from me once Lee does mine!!! The line is long enough now as it is without you spouting on!!!
28-12-2009 06:36 PMmoc

QUOTE (David Sparavec @ 28 Dec 2009, 06:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Quote:

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Shut up Mark!....They can all find out from me once Lee does mine!!! The line is long enough now as it is without you spouting on!!![/b]
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I just enjoy looking around and seeing that long queue form up behind me!!
09-01-2010 09:00 PMEXIS
Quote:

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Originally Posted by RicharNHCooper
Time will tell as the new year should bring a few more options for those of us who are power challenged!

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I hope so... I love my Exige but been thinking of changing to a GT3 because it seems like a better all-rounder :confused:
09-01-2010 09:12 PMrob 240r
Quote:

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Originally Posted by EXIS
I love my Exige but been thinking of changing to a GT3 because it seems like a better all-rounder :confused:

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dont do it . trust me , dont do it !
09-01-2010 10:15 PMjacks1071
Quote:

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Originally Posted by EXIS
I hope so... I love my Exige but been thinking of changing to a GT3 because it seems like a better all-rounder :confused:

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My dream garage has a GT3 RS in it - but I won't be selling the Exige to buy it :-)
09-01-2010 11:40 PMEXIS
Quote:

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Originally Posted by rob 240r
dont do it . trust me , dont do it !

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Hahaha I'll keep my Exige till the end of this year (i.e. 3 years) and then see how I feel - compared to how you feel in your signature also after 3 years

The M3 and the GT3 are both pretty good all-rounders but I already have a quick bm so the GT3 is more appealing.
09-01-2010 11:46 PMEXIS
Quote:

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Originally Posted by jacks1071
My dream garage has a GT3 RS in it - but I won't be selling the Exige to buy it :-)

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Haha I'd be happy with a normal 996 GT3 with the clubsport package... but can't find any black ones for sale. The only one for sale on carsales.com.au doesn't have a road worthy certificate
10-01-2010 11:13 AMNoel
997 Series 2 GT3 RS or Cup or GT2 ... No less. http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/5764/applause.gif

1Zz Dbw Diagram

Sun, 10 Jan 2010 23:51:41 +0000

slowly moving my tech stuff from the 'old site'

http://www.host32.com/Elise/dbw_1zz.pdf

3-piece diffuser now available

Wed, 07 Oct 2009 04:18:01 +0000

Kirrapak Sheetmetal have just made our first prototype of the three-piece Elise/Exige rear diffuser. Many owners have been asking for this one......
We plan to have a few options:

1/ standard replacement
2/ standard replacement with no exhaust cut-out - for those with after market exhausts
3/ 3 inches longer than std
4/ 3 inches longer than std with no exhaust cut-out - for those with after market exhausts

Diffusers will be available in powdercoat finish: silver pearl or satin black, gloss black, black pearl, (or any special colour available as an extra)

What i need now, is someone with a suitable car, to fit the prototype to for trial and to make any adjustments, before we start taking orders.

Pricing will be available soon.

Source for Khumos

Sun, 27 Sep 2009 05:56:41 +0000

Hi chaps, I realise I'm late into the Khumo party, but I do need to grab a set of something and the agreed wisdom seems to be that these are the dogs for now, so I'd be interested in referrals of Lotus friendly vendors. I'm embarrased to say the Yokis lasted me 18000 Kms

Cheers.

P.S. Ash, great move setting up here and whilst I agree that getting control of Mk I would be preferable it seems that this is the best available option.